Adding removeable ballast?

[255grizzly]

I sail an Olson 25 single handed. In high winds and chop, I really wish I had more weight on the rail. I am considering if and how I might add removeable ballast (such that I don't ruin the boat for one design if I ever sell it and/or so that I can take the ballast out for light wind sailing.) This could be water ballast or lead in the bilge or some such.

A few questions:

1. Has anyone done this in their own boat - and did it help?

2. Has anyone had experience with NorCal phrf and removeable ballast - and did they change your rating? The guidelines are vague ("Modifications involving changes in (but not limited to) structural configuration, optional materials, ballast and ballast location, engine location, keel, and rudder will be dealt with on a boat-by-boat basis.")

3. Where does one go for expertise / to figure out the specifics of doing this? I could go to a boatyard, but I am a little wary... Would a naval architect make sense? (I know I could just calculate the weight of the rail meat and then buy a bunch of lead or fill up a bunch of bags... But I am thinking there are a few details about placement I would like help with... And that it wouldn't hurt to talk through the details.)

Thanks for any insight you have!

 

[BobJ]

Crew weight does two things for your boat - it adds leverage (when on the rail) and it brings the boat down onto its designed water plane, adding stability and a bit more LWL.

Doing stuff to your boat to substitute for the first is difficult, expensive and hammers your rating. It's also not practical for inshore racing due to the time and physical effort required to transfer the weight on tacks and jibes. Here's one article: http://www.vgyd.com/Waterballast.html

Assuming your boat is below its designed sailing weight without crew*, adding internal ballast to bring the boat down onto its designed water plane is worth considering. It can be concentrated low and in the center of the boat and will improve stability, though obviously without the added leverage of crew on the rail. It may still cost you something on your rating (which never made sense to me) but it might be worth doing.

Since Rags is a marginally-planing boat I decided adding weight wasn't worth it, and I still do okay if I reef upwind. For singlehanders, having a smooth reefing system is essential.

* Some boats are so full of crap in the cabin and lockers (or have enough wet core etc.) that without crew they are already at or above their designed sailing weight. The weight just isn't in the best place. Removing the extra stuff and substituting internal ballast would improve stability and pitching moment.

 

[Wylieguy]

If you add/move ballast, I'd really suggest you run it by the NC PHRF Committee - just to be fair to your competition if for no other reason. PHRF ratings are "honor" ratings since no one from the PHRF committee inspects your boat to ensure that what you say is what you sail. This should be especially true if you're considering moveable ballast - or any change to the ballast as installed at the factory in a one-design boat.

Some one-design rules allow ballast adjustments, but I think that is factored in by the PHRF Committee. When I sailed a Coronado 25 (I give away my age here), we were allowed to put 50# of weight on the forepeak sole as part of the one-design rules, for instance. Are there any similar rules in the Olson 25 Class Association rules?

200# on the rail - as in a "moveable" crew member - vs. 200# of lead in the bilge might not be the same. Sounds like a problem to ask Max Ebb in on of his monthly "Latitude 38" columns.

 

[Philpott]

Sounds like a problem to ask Max Ebb in on of his monthly "Latitude 38" columns.

Or just saunter over to O dock and ask him. Twilight Zone is the first boat on your right as you enter the gate.