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Are vinyl coated lifelines allowed?

KKMI is trying to "sell" me on using jack lines made of DYNEEMA as they don't roll underfeet!
I'm curious - why would jackline material factor into whether or not it rolls underfoot? Wouldn't that be more a function of the shape, not the material? (e.g., a round object can roll, a flat object does not).

- rob/beetle
 
I sent Sam a longer response but here are the main points:

1) Plastic-coated lifelines are not prohibited in the RR&C's, but they are not recommended. Stainless steel corrodes when not exposed to the air, plus the plastic coating prevents you from seeing the condition of the wire - a double-bad.

2) Sam's boat is pretty new so this shouldn't be a problem for a couple of years - pure speculation on my part.

3) Custom-made jacklines are expensive. Most of us have the webbing ones (usually made by Wichard) - mine have a breaking strength of 6,000#. Since they're webbing they tend to lay flat on the deck so your foot won't roll on them.
 
IMO webbing is preferable for jacklines for simple reason that on a dark night you are more likely to hook into the more easily identifiable webbing rather than a dyneema rope that looks like the rest of the spaghetti running aft on the deck.

Mea Culpa: Some years ago I lobbied SSS not to ban the then common usage of plastic-coated lifelines. Properly maintained and inspected for rust and stranding at the swadges, plastic coated lifelines have two attributes I came to appreciate when offshore: 1) when on the foredeck and washed into the lifelines by a breaking wave, uncoated small diameter wire lifelines act like a cheese slicer on the human body. 2) Uncoated wire lifelines have the penchant to draw blood when your skin gets pinched where the lifeline passes through the stanchion.

If you do have uncoated wire lifelines, I suggest slip-on plastic tubing to protect yourself in vulnerable locations.
 
I'm curious - why would jackline material factor into whether or not it rolls underfoot? Wouldn't that be more a function of the shape, not the material? (e.g., a round object can roll, a flat object does not).

- rob/beetle

The dyneema sample I looked at was oblong = elliptical shaped, further flattened when squeezed.................[Sam/So' aire]
 
IMO webbing is preferable for jacklines for simple reason that on a dark night you are more likely to hook into the more easily identifiable webbing rather than a dyneema rope that looks like the rest of the spaghetti running aft on the deck.

..........for this iditarod I plan to leave [2] SOSpenders harness tethers pre-hooked to both PORT and STBD jacklines at cockpit, hang free ends of both tethers within reach of companionway stairwell for quick snap-on when exiting cabin. See any drawbacks with this scheme? [Sam/So' aire]
 
Webbing with amsteel

I have been happy with my jacklines. They are webbing with amsteel threaded through the tube. Flat and easy to grab. Won't stretch like pure webbing.

-jak
 
..........for this iditarod I plan to leave [2] SOSpenders harness tethers pre-hooked to both PORT and STBD jacklines at cockpit, hang free ends of both tethers within reach of companionway stairwell for quick snap-on when exiting cabin. See any drawbacks with this scheme? [Sam/So' aire]

OK, as long as it is remembered tether length plus stretch in system will allow you to be launched over the leeward lifelines in a knockdown. Suggest in conditions where knockdown is possible (Day1-2) and you are in cockpit, to shorten tether by wrapping around windward side winch. Or use a second short tether. You don't want any slack in system.
 
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