Brian is awesome! (Read to end.)

[PSutchek]

For Me ,,, its almost completely worthless !

upwind it may hold a course with wind.. BUT it does not hook up to NEEMA2000 that i know of and with converters slowing response times down ive heard its not worth hooking up...


but Downwind it cannot steer for SHIT ! and THATS where i actually want it to work ! it might steer plus and negative of a course 15degrees , thats a 30 degree fuckup !

unless theres a firmware patch , reprogramming or an update i think Palegic should give everybody's money back....

the best use ive found is to just push the buttons to where i want it to hold the tiller and NOT engage its brain... then i go forward and jibe my spinnaker...

anyways ,just my thoughts, YMMV
P

 

[solosailor]

Something is amiss..... either with the brain or setup. Although I've never used one with wind input it steered to compass fine and other have report the same.

 

[Intermission]

I'll bet you a dollar to a dog turd that a Pelagic representative could identify and rectify your issues. I almost put one on the current boat, I will certainly put one on my next boat.

 

[brianb]

Hi Paul,

Hope all is well. The Pelagic has been revised since your purchase. You might want to give Scanmar a call and arrange an upgrade. Or you can direct message me here.

Regards,
Brian

 

[GBR3068]

I have three Pelagic controllers. I have one hooked up to the small ram and my Monitor, two are spares. I had a dodgy button once and the Scanmar folks reacted quickly and got me a replacement, a spare and a spare for the spare. Unbelievable service and the fact the guys are local makes a huge difference. I cannot sail offshore without the Pelagic. It works fine on any point of sail and conditions I have tried so far. I really recommend you reach out to the folks at Scanmar, they will surely put you right. I also recommend you update the firmware, which is continually improving.

 

[AntsUiga]

For Me ,,, its almost completely worthless !

upwind it may hold a course with wind.. BUT it does not hook up to NEEMA2000 that i know of and with converters slowing response times down ive heard its not worth hooking up...


but Downwind it cannot steer for SHIT ! and THATS where i actually want it to work ! it might steer plus and negative of a course 15degrees , thats a 30 degree fuckup !

unless theres a firmware patch , reprogramming or an update i think Palegic should give everybody's money back....

the best use ive found is to just push the buttons to where i want it to hold the tiller and NOT engage its brain... then i go forward and jibe my spinnaker...

anyways ,just my thoughts, YMMV
P

It may be useful to pay attention to the tone of the posting on the SSS forum. Your post is certainly offensive.

When there are problems, there always are people that help. Is is useful to not alienate the folks that can help.

The folks at Pelagic have been superb in helping me.

Cheers,

Ants

 

[DaveH]

It may be useful to pay attention to the tone of the posting on the SSS forum. Your post is certainly offensive.

When there are problems, there always are people that help. Is is useful to not alienate the folks that can help.

The folks at Pelagic have been superb in helping me.

Cheers,

Ants

+1 there Ants -

I've held off posting due to the original tone.

Hedgehog currently runs 2 Pelagics, powered thru a 3 way rocker switch (onA, off, onB). the NMEA 0183 (yeah) feeds directly from the B&G MFD display, in tandem to the NMEA 2000 from same - I'm sure there's some translation degradation, but I can't detect it.
Actually, what I have found helps is to significantly pad the NMEA 2K input so that the "noise" from the windex data stream and mast tip gyration induced variables are minimized.
When I choose to run it in wind mode, which isn't always the best bet with any AP downwind IMHO, despite what the brochures want you to believe.

90% sure your downwind troubles are the result of not understanding how to setup the gain.
Yes, the button & blinking lights interface takes practice, and I'm not too proud to admit to have resorted to a laminated cheat sheet.
OTOH, it's also not $4K with an equally obtuse GUI menu that could only be intuited by a some one of French extraction (NKE).

I sailed the 2016 SHTP with a then-current pelagic steering the ENTIRE time, excepting maybe 45 minutes of very light air transition around the Farallon's.
I did round down 3 times, but then I was pushing very hard, and any AP would struggle with 10' ground swell and 3' randomly placed cross seas.
So yeah, I guess there's some variation in my mileage.

Lastly, as Brian mentions above, there have been several (I lost count) software upgrades since then, and my current practice is to keep one unit with the last known-good-for-me version, and one with the bleeding edge release.
But again, YMMV with service and support, depending on how much of an entitled jackass approach you bring to the table.

DH

 

[AlanH]

I had big issues as well, but I note that the person who bought my Pelagic installed the software updates and apparently has been using the unit just fine for almost two years.

Whatever the case, while I grumped about my issues here on the forum a bit, I recognized that the way to solve them was to talk to the guy who designed them, and that going on about it here on the forum probably wasn't a good way to get help or get the pilots to work as designed.

 

[JimQuanci]

Pelagic works great for me. Under chute in 25k and big waves. Day and night for week(s). As mentioned by Dave my guess is you have a "gain" issue (gain needs to be adjusted to match the sea state and the roll rate of your boat). Too little gain and yes the boat will wonder (true of all Autopilots).

Oh
Advise you learn to adjust the gain with compass steering first (AWA steering can be a bit more finicky especially in light air).

And just in case... keep metal and anything magnetic plenty far from the AP control. If say a handheld VHF or even your mobile phone is close by... yes steering will be wonky.

 

[GBR3068]

>> Actually, what I have found helps is to significantly pad the NMEA 2K input so that the "noise" from the windex data stream and mast tip gyration induced variables are minimized.

David: I have a similar setup: B&G Zeus3 MFD with 0183 to Pelagic, as follows (https://cache.tradeinn.com/images/pdf/manuales/eng_bandg_manu_zeus3.pdf):

4 NMEA 0183 RX_B (orange)
5 NMEA 0183 RX_A (green)
6 NMEA 0183 TX_B (blue)
7 NMEA 0183 TX_A (yellow)

and the Pelagic with inputs as follows (https://www.westsail.org/resources/manual/Pelagic/Pelagic_Manual 4.1.3 R66 .pdf):

"Connect the small Green (+) and Black (-) wires from the Drive box to your NMEA output, using OUT+ and OUT- on your NMEA output port. Note various manufactures may use slightly different terms for the NMEA0183 inputs and outputs."

So…

1. When you say "pad" the NMEA 2k input, you mean (a) "pad" as in resistor attenuator?? (b) is your NMEA 2k somehow also connected to the Pelagic 0183 through an NMEA converter? (c) The wind data raw from a B&G is in fact 0183 (I believe) and converted to 2k though the little B&G inline box (for the wired sensor version), are you somehow getting direct to the B&G 0183? (that is is my goal).

2. Did you look at the B&G 0183 output and what does it look like? whats the voltage swing?

3. Just as a check, what is connected to what in your setup? (A or +) B& TX_A (yellow) to Pelagic Green (+) (B or -) B&G TX_B (blue) to Pelagic Black (-)?

4. I *think* / *believe* B&G will only output MWV on 0183. I *think* / *believe* Pelagic takes VWR and MWV? Have you checked your sentences? I dont have the capability to, but think I probably need to, help/advice appreciated.

 

[DaveH]

>> Actually, what I have found helps is to significantly pad the NMEA 2K input so that the "noise" from the windex data stream and mast tip gyration induced variables are minimized.

David: I have a similar setup: B&G Zeus3 MFD with 0183 to Pelagic, as follows (https://cache.tradeinn.com/images/pdf/manuales/eng_bandg_manu_zeus3.pdf):

4 NMEA 0183 RX_B (orange)
5 NMEA 0183 RX_A (green)
6 NMEA 0183 TX_B (blue)
7 NMEA 0183 TX_A (yellow)

and the Pelagic with inputs as follows (https://www.westsail.org/resources/manual/Pelagic/Pelagic_Manual 4.1.3 R66 .pdf):

"Connect the small Green (+) and Black (-) wires from the Drive box to your NMEA output, using OUT+ and OUT- on your NMEA output port. Note various manufactures may use slightly different terms for the NMEA0183 inputs and outputs."

So…

1. When you say "pad" the NMEA 2k input, you mean (a) "pad" as in resistor attenuator?? (b) is your NMEA 2k somehow also connected to the Pelagic 0183 through an NMEA converter? (c) The wind data raw from a B&G is in fact 0183 (I believe) and converted to 2k though the little B&G inline box (for the wired sensor version), are you somehow getting direct to the B&G 0183? (that is is my goal).

2. Did you look at the B&G 0183 output and what does it look like? whats the voltage swing?

3. Just as a check, what is connected to what in your setup? (A or +) B& TX_A (yellow) to Pelagic Green (+) (B or -) B&G TX_B (blue) to Pelagic Black (-)?

4. I *think* / *believe* B&G will only output MWV on 0183. I *think* / *believe* Pelagic takes VWR and MWV? Have you checked your sentences? I dont have the capability to, but think I probably need to, help/advice appreciated.

Hi Mike -
it sounds like we are essentially talking about the same set up - I am taking the 0183 output direct from the Zeus 3.
I am not running any 0183 input to the MFD, everything except the pelagic runs on a NMEA 2K backbone.

1. What I am referring to is damping the sensor input (lowering the sensitivity / response) on the 2K sensor. This seems to have a sympathetic effect on the 0183 output.
2. No, I have not gone that deep
3. B (from memory, which is not infallable)
4. yes, I have, but it's been several years and on my other boat; this seems to work so I haven't dived in that deep this time. I have reduced the amount data output on the 0183 network to just apparent and true wind, which can be done on the Zeus 3... It's several submenus down; reducing the sentences sent seems to increase the odds of the pelagic reading them correctly.

 

[GBR3068]

Thanks! That really helps. I may be over to poke around if I have a problem, you have the same setup as I do. You're welcome to do the same if you ever need to. I love the SSS and this forum, saved me soo much time.

 

[DaveH]

All of the above notwithstanding...
To be clear, I use wind mode very sparingly...
For the most part I prefer to run things in gyro compensated compass mode, with the gain regulating the ratio, and adjust trim as appropriate.
DH

 

[Foolish]

There is no doubt that the usefulness of the Pelagic depends on your boat. For my Olson 30, that is a really twitchy boat at the best of times, the Pelagic just cannot manage downwind with the chute up. But then again neither can my much more expensive Raymarine system in 20 knots of wind. However, if you've got a really stable boat, then I'm sure the Pelagic will do just fine, as others have mentioned. And to be absolutely sure they do provide incredibly excellent service.

So I've determined that neither the Pelagic nor the Raymarine systems would manage my boat to Hawaii where the winds are stable above 20. But that is just my Olson 30. Take a look at your own boat and make the decision based on that.

 

[johnkearney]

The Pelagic has been revised since your purchase. You might want to give Scanmar a call and arrange an upgrade.

Have folks had success with this? When I messaged Scanmar after I installed my Pelagic, they told me the unit was too old to be safely upgraded. This was 2 years after I had bought it but the first time I had used it due to the unit arriving after the end of the sailing season in 2018. My Pelagic had arrived without a manual - eventually I got a copy of the user's manual from one of the other sailors in the Express 27 class - who had bought a unit in the same era that I had in 2018. Maybe the support situation has improved since then and I should try again?

John

 

[PSutchek]

So , since I did start this mess... I'll come back into the Frey and add some information... i WAS angry when I wrote my first post... the Paligic, which I thought I could trust had sent my into dangerous conditions/circumstances while on course in a race.... it didn't bother me as much while not racing... it could hold a course while I motored and i would adjust every 5 min..... but when I spend a grand I kinda think a thing should work...

Now.. saying that... I have an old model, I'm guessing before Scannmar acquired it.... Brian graciously offered to look the unit over, even after I had thrown my fit....
Thank you Brian


And in my own twisted thinking..I wasn't going to tear out one unit without replacing it with a new one.... one days work vs two..... so I have Bought a new unit.. will replace the old and hopefully have a repaired and upgraded second set!

But also and at the same time... I'm concerned about others experiences with it not working as well as people like me expect... my second unit will tell the tale ! Can she get me to Hawaii. ???

 

[solosailor]

Well people who go with electronic pilots generally have 2-3 spares ready to use. I personally carried 3x brains, 4x drives.

 

[mpolkabla]

I had purchased a new heavy duty Pelagic system a few months ago with intentions to install on my Cal40 (tiller mount) but decided to do a different direction with my autopilot system for the SHTP event that is coming up. This Pelagic unit is brand new, never installed, in the box with everything the manufacturer included (including 2x programmed remote fobs). If anyone is interested please contact me and we can work something out.

Michael P.
(831) 264-3414

 

[jamottep]

Well people who go with electronic pilots generally have 2-3 spares ready to use. I personally carried 3x brains, 4x drives.

+1

It also important to keep in mind a few things about autopilots, regardless of the manufacturer and how much one pays for it:

1. They have to be installed properly (many things can go wrong here). Ask Brian, he has tons of stories on this topic.
2. They have to be adjusted for each boat and then adjusted for points of sail and weather conditions. That's why there are settings that the user can change. In my experience, this is the hardest part: figuring out these settings.
3. The actuator can only move so fast. If keeping the boat on course sometimes requires fast and large movement of the tiller, well, no autopilot can do that. One would need to adjust sails to keep the autopilot within its physical limitations. Again, regardless of the AP cost.
4. APs need power and battery voltage dropping will cause strange behaviors.

Well, that's my limited experience. I like a set and forget approach. But APs do require adjustments, just like a helmsman changes steering style as things change (sail plan, point of sail, weather, etc.).

 

[PSutchek]

Here is probably my last input on this thread . so,,, i called Palegic.. talked about my issues..i also talked with Brian for a few weeks . I ordered and installed a BRAND NEW Palegic system thinking something was wrong with my old system,,, and while i was second guessing my irritation and initial online explosion... it turns out my installation was correct just that i had a VERY EARLY model...early programing and a limited computational ability with the initial hardware... Brian was awesome , and upgraded the new AND the old head unit to the best of his abilities... i believe that the newer unit will work more proficiently and that i also has a secondary backup unit to boot !

so , Koodos to Palegic , and Brian... with sub par communication on my part because of irritation and dangerous conditions while i was one course one day.... my oppologies