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Moore newbie questions

A

acoest

New member
I wanted to introduce myself and also ask a couple of newbie questions. I have a Moore 24 that is currently being refurbished at Elkhorn composites and I'd like to set it up for singlehanded racing. Since the deck is getting redone, I have the opportunity to change the deck layout.

The boat is currently set up for round the bouys racing with all sorts of fine tuning that I am planning to mostly remove to reduce complexity.
Question - Is there a deck setup for the Moore that people have found preferable? Specifically, what is often done with the adjustable backstay? Mine currently runs underneath one of the quarter births to a mainsheet pedestal with a lot of purchase that takes up a fair amount of space and makes me concerned about chafe/failure points.

Adam
 
Hi Adam - welcome!

That sounds like a fun project, and Elkhorn is a great shop. I'd try to reach Gilles (pron. "jills") Combrisson @ GC Composites in Richmond. Besides restoring at least one Moore 24 himself (along with other boats - he's a pro), Gilles is an excellent rigger who has set boats up for racing singlehanded. One example was a new J/88 for Chris Cartwright, who did a SH TransPac with it.

Another thought is that most of the value of a Moore 24 is because of the vibrant local one-design fleet. In making your changes, I would allow for adding back the more desirable controls for one-design racing, so when the time comes to move on you can get full value out of the boat.

Once you get comfortable racing the boat, you may want more of those controls anyway. Uncluttered decks are certainly a benefit but there are trade-offs. For example, when single-handing around here, you may reef a lot. With the Moore's fractional rig, you can postpone or avoid some of that reefing with a robust backstay system that will enable you to flatten the main. On my J/92, I often played the backstay upwind as much as the mainsheet. You need to be able to trim it with one arm = plenty of purchase is good!

Bob J.
 
Hi Adam,

Welcome to the SSS forum. There is no lack of excellent information from the forum members, their knowledge is extensive. In the old fashion forum manner, the responses will stay organized.

The 2nd source of excellent information is the Moore 24 fleet. If you have not been added to the group email, you should. I am not sure who manages the email list, however, owning hull #70, I am on the list.

As for the adjustable backstay, #70 still has the original traveler as Ron Moore built the boat. The traveler is double ended and comes up just forward of the traveler, and can be easily adjusted on either tack. I alway like plenty of mechanical advantage so adjustments happe easily.

Cheers,
Ants
 
Mark and I Double handed Mas a bunch offshore. Backstay we rigged up to come out of the main sheet pedestal, worked great.

We also had above deck floating leads and this was really helpful offshore as you can quickly change modes.

Ask any questions you have, we spent a lot of time redoing the deck for shorthanded work.
 
Ian Rogers said:
Mark and I Double handed Mas a bunch offshore. Backstay we rigged up to come out of the main sheet pedestal, worked great.

We also had above deck floating leads and this was really helpful offshore as you can quickly change modes.

Ask any questions you have, we spent a lot of time redoing the deck for shorthanded work.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I have a couple of questions. Did you find the above deck floating leads got in the way at all - and did you leads for the #1, #2, and #3 or did you leave a transverse track for the #3 like many Moores do? Did you run halyards back to the cockpit or leave them at the mast?
 
we had no issues with the above deck floating leads, we had a cabin top boat and we had them all right next to the house. Never an issues, I have sailed on flush deck boats with them and we didn't have any issue with them either.

We set up Mas with floating leads for the 1,2,and 3. for the 1 and 3, these were our offshore sails we added a second outboard location for the leads so we could switch were they were if we need a sheet outboard. It went something like this, blow the leads 100% off, unclip the jib bock from the leads (with the sheet still in the block), run the up/down lead to the outboard location, clip on block, tighten up/down to trim jib. Took about 15 seconds to change to an outboard or inboard lead, super fast.

we had all of our halyards back in the cockpit for offshore work and would add back the cleats on the mast for inshore sailing so the kite could be raised from the mast inshore. Offshore we didn't use the bow hatch for the spinnaker, where we would inshore.
 
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