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New Hawkfarm owner

Lunasea

New member
Greetings. Im the new owner of an aforementoned Hawkfarm.. Lunasea. This boat was posted on the site back in October of 2013. As a previous owner of an Islander 32 MkII, this style of boat is new to me but as im wishing to spend more time a little closer to the water, it seems like the right choice. Ive a couple questions for those experienced with the Hawkfarm..1) Is the downwind performance a big enough issue to change to new rudder that Ive read is available. 2) Should I plan on a repower if I want to make the occasional run to Catalina. Is the current 8HP powerplant and folding prop enough to push the boat along? 3) interior mods or suggestions for more comfortable overnights..although I know its not an Islander 32.

Thanks all..Im sure Ill have more questions as I become more acquainted with Lunasea
Cheers
 
Congrat's Luna.

I just did a rudder upgrade. It will probably cost more than you paid for the boat.

1GM10? With a Martec folder it will be maxed out. My boat is lighter than yours and has a Flex-O-Fold (much better prop) - it still struggles upwind in chop. But again, a repower (if a new engine) will cost twice what you paid for the boat. I get the main up right away and sheet it on centerline. It steadies the boat and usually allows me to motor upwind at hull speed if slightly cracked off.

Anyway, I'd drive it 'til the wheels fall off and then get something that has had the work done.
 
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I'd agree with BobJ. Don't spend money on this boat until you figure what you got. A new rudder for going to Catalina or racing in S.Cal won't do diddly. It primarily helps control in a breeze, more than is usual in your area.

Boatyards routinely charge $100/hour. Dan Newland or WaterRat will make you a new rudder with about a year lead time. Figure $10,000 to get a new rudder built and installed.

Likewise, a new Yanmar 1 GM 10, or Beta Marine, is a $10,000 plus installation, including modifying the engine bed, likely new shaft, strut, prop, stuffing box, wiring, fuel tank, etc.

I built Hawkfarms, and owned a near sistership for 33 years. Feel free to get in touch if needed. Meanwhile, do what most of us do here at SSS: "Bring what ya got."
 
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As someone who did a rudder upgrade, I agree with Bob and Skip 100%.
 
Thank you both for the responses. i definitely plan on using the boat as is for a while to see where I stand. Sleddog (Skip), ive read quite about your experiences with Wildflower(sad ending to that one, im sorry). I'll surely be in touch with any questions about improvements, although currently Lunasea seems pretty solid. Thanks again!
 
Well, after a sea trial, I'm the official owner of Lunasea. According to the PO the boat was originally named Jim Jim and sailed out of Dana Point. Apparently, this was hull #29..the build quality on these boats is impressive. Sleddog, if you worked on this one..well done:). The few interiors I have seen have been pretty basic and expected, given the original race intent of these boats. Having not been in the cabin until today, I was surprised to see teak and holly sole, 2 burner stove, icebox and sink!. Still has the original cushions fore and aft in great shape. Did the interior finish vary?? This all seems to be original. I do want to ditch the Martec prop and get a 3 blade fixed..any thought re: size, pitch etc. for the 8HP Renault? I'll post some photos after I have her cleaned up..thanks for the assistance!
 
The Martec is a better deal than the 3 blade fixed. Would recommend against this. The three blade will destroy the good sailing characteristics of your boat, give you unpleasant tiller vibes, catch kelp, and perhaps cause engine damage if you sail with the gear shift in neutral and the prop rotates.

WILDFLOWER cruised at 5.8 knots under power with Martec. Reverse is no problem. Just allow a little extra time to get stern way. Your Martec may need to be refurbished if the blades are loose on the hub. Much cheaper having Martec refurbish than buying a new prop, and dealing with getting the right pitch, shaft threads, etc.

Continue to recommend go sailing first. Changing props is counterproductive at this point. Find someone experienced to show how a Martec folds and unfolds. If the boat is moving under sail, you have to first shift into reverse for a moment to unfold the prop.
 
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Thank you..Ill stick with the Martec then! The PO said he had the prop checked out when he hauled it and it was OK. It may just be my first time experience with a folding prop. My Islander 32 had a fixed prop and 30HP..so obviously there should be some difference to expect. Since you were involved in the construction of these boats from the beginning..would you say the manufacturing processes with the Wylie boats were the same as the production builders of the same era..i.e. Islander, Ericsons, etc. or were you guys doing something different? I hope you don't mind answering all these questions..I have to say it's a rare pleasure and great benefit to me to have someone with as much experience as yourself both from a sailing and manufacturing perspective fielding my questions...thanks again.
 
I received the original owners paperwork today on the Hawkfarm 28 and after a cursory review of construction methods would like to apologize for mentioning Islanders, Ericsons etc. having the same construction methods as these stout boats.
Im lucky to have found it.
Cheers.
 
As someone who has done two brand new rudders in the last two years (Moore 24 and Cal 2-27), I would say that the figure of 10 g's for a Hawkfarm rudder is way massively overstated. I just put a brand new Schumacher designed rudder on my Cal 2-27 a month ago for $1,050 and then sailed the boat to Hawai'i and just arrived 2 days ago. Sailed great.

New rudders kick ass. broken rudder screwed up my first offshore foray and on a lot of boats in the 30+ year old range need new rudders. My 2-27 rudder is from 1977 and had pitting on the rudder post where it would likely fail just above the top of the foil. in many cases, a way newer cooler design of rudder with more modern design philosophy can be had for a similar investment to stock replacement or even rebuilding an old one.
 
New Hawkfarm rudder:

basic rudder with SS rudder post: $4,000 (includes shipping)
materials and labor to machine new turcite bearings http://www.aetnaplastics.com/products/d/Turcite/ $750 *
Haul, block, launch at Driscoll's Mission Bay $500 (excludes pressure wash, slippage, and laydays)
Drop rudder, remove old top and bottom bearings, install new bearings and rudder $85/hour Driscoll's labor rate.
1 qt. bottom paint for rudder. $70

*note: typically older Hawkfarm Delrin rudder bearings have about a 20 year lifespan before becoming worn and sloppy. Turcite, a better product, does not swell in water like Delrin.
 
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