NorCal Offshore Racing Council Minimum Offshore Requirements version 1.06

[Philpott]

The second sentence of 3.1 on page two intrigues me: "Lifelines must be uncoated stainless steel wire or Dyneema/Spectra line with spliced terminations. A knotted multipart lashing segment not to exceed 6” tying lifelines to pulpits is allowed." I would love to see an illustration of this. Anybody care to photograph an example? Please?

 

[BobJ]

View attachment 303
Lifeline lashings (click to make it bigger).

 

[BobJ]

View attachment 304
Gucci Dyneema lifeline with chafe protector - on my list for Rags.

 

[Philpott]

Don't see the "splicing" part on your Gucci lifeline. Do you think " a knotted multipart lashing segment not to exceed 6” tying lifelines to pulpits" without the splicing would suffice? At least 5mm, of course.

 

[tiger beetle]

Don't see the "splicing" part on your Gucci lifeline. Do you think " a knotted multipart lashing segment not to exceed 6” tying lifelines to pulpits" without the splicing would suffice? At least 5mm, of course.

Bob's photo of the short lashing is of wire lifelines swaged to a terminal and the boat owner used lashings instead of turnbuckles to tension the lifelines. You'd use spectra and a spliced loop in place of the wire and swaged terminal for a spectra lifeline.

There are no splices visible in Bob's photo of the spectra line passing through the stanchion; the splices would be at each end of that spectra line, presumably one end spliced directly to the bow (or stern pulpit), and the other end terminated with a spliced loop that is then connected via short lashing to the stern (or bow) pulpit. The white material on the spectra is an abrasion-resistant cover that protects the spectra from chafe where the spectra passes through the metal stanchion.

 

[BobJ]

Do you think " a knotted multipart lashing segment not to exceed 6” tying lifelines to pulpits" without the splicing would suffice?

No. Knots in Dyneema substantially weaken it. The ends should have eye splices and although they're not required, thimbles to tie the lashings through since bending the Dyneema sharper than about 5:1 is what weakens it. I just couldn't find a better photo in the five minutes I looked. You can always stay with wire and regular fittings - just don't have them put the plastic coating on them.

 

[Philpott]

The appeal of the lashing has to do with the ability to re-adjust over time. Lifelines get so saggy. The lifeline adjusters on my boat could tension no further. Of course, they were very old.

 

[pogen]

Well if they are stretched out that much you had best replace them anyway.

Replacing the plastic-covered lifelines on my boat was one of my first tasks as a new owner -- there was substantial corrosion of the wire hidden under the plastic, where water gets trapped.

 

[kotyara]

Here's a good walkthrough of dynema replacement.
http://www.alohaowners.com/projects/amsteel_lifelines/amsteel_lifelines.htm

As for tensioning, you could use your existing turnbuckles, just replace the swaged ends with toggle clamps.

Here's a picture of a lashing they use for Dynema shrouds. I think that's what they meant.

Cheers,
Alex.

 

[K38Bob]

Here's a good walkthrough of dynema replacement.
http://www.alohaowners.com/projects/amsteel_lifelines/amsteel_lifelines.htm

As for tensioning, you could use your existing turnbuckles, just replace the swaged ends with toggle clamps.

Here's a picture of a lashing they use for Dynema shrouds. I think that's what they meant.

Cheers,
Alex.

Seems like the shackle has much smaller radius than the expensive thimble reducing its benefit.

PS- what BobJ said http://www.sfbaysss.net/showthread.php?1045-NorCal-Offshore-Racing-Council-Minimum-Offshore-Requirements-version-1-06&p=6796#post6796