GALE SURVIVAL: I feel the most important addition for sailing offshore is my fiorentino para anchor (sea anchor). Besides practice deployments, I've used it once for real: in a sudden and unforecast gale (40 kts sustained, 45 kts gusts) while in cross seas, 20 miles from the nearest port (near Pigeon Point), and with a lee shore 6 miles off. It allowed me to retreat to my cabin to curse the wind gods while enjoying 60 degree heels and occasional weightlessness. It saved me and my vessel. My vessel made only 0.4 kts SOG during the 6 hours I waited for the gale to abate. With the high cross seas and pyramidal-shaped swells reaching 20 feet, heaving to wasn't an option, and running would have taken me aground. The only survivable option was to keep the bow pointed up into the prevailing seas.
HEADING DEVIATION ALARM: For worry-free sleep, I've installed a Clipper Marine Steering Compass that has a heading deviation alarm. Since it has a flux gate compass sensor, I can place the sensor in an optimal location away from my radios and other magnetic stuff, making it more accurate than my mechanical compass in the cockpit. In a boat as small as mine, it's hard to place anything far away from anything else.
LEARN NOT TO BURN: I experienced a propane explosion and fire while crewing on another boat. Fortunately, the skipper alone got only minor flash burns (though she wasn't happy about losing most of her hair), and we put out the ensuring fire (fabric curtains). I can't think of anything more terrifying than a fire at sea in a fiberglass boat. Ever since, I've vowed I'd be more inclined to carry nitroglycerin on board. I've installed a 3,000 watt inverter to run a microwave for cooking. A cup of steaming coffee "costs" 3 amp hours, and a meal costs 6 amp hours.
RAIN/SPRAY PROOFING A TILLER PILOT: Raymarine tiller pilots need some protection from rain and spray. I cover the switches and LCD window with plastic wrap (Saran Wrap) that I seal at the top and bottom with 3M masking tape (the blue stuff). I considered a fabric casing, but that would partially prevent the tiller pilot from dissipating heat. The vent at the bottom back needs to stay open to prevent moisture retention, so complete immersion will still kill the device. The pushrod, which has a 9 inch throw, isn't completely water tight at its entry into the box and it will convey water into the electronics. Some people have tried using a coating of Vaseline, but that will eventually gum up the inside. So.... what resilient, puncture resistant, water-tight covering could one use to cover a tubular object? Humm... A condom! I seal the condom at the shaft hilt with mastic tape (use unlubricated condoms so the tape will stick). Works great so far! I did have to try a few brands before I found one (Trojan) that would stretch to the 9 inch throw without showing signs of strain. (You should have seen the look on the lady pharmacist's face when I complained that: "These aren't long enough. What do you have that stretches to 9 inches?") BTW, when you buy a tiller pilot, take it out of the box at the store, shake it a little, and if you hear something rattling around inside - it's loose solder beads inside the case that are just waiting to short a circuit board tracing. Raymarine assembly folks need lessons in proper soldering. I rejected three units in a row by this test. They'd dribbled solder all over making the connections to the drive motor.
