Sail changes and auto pilots

[kotyara]

Hi folks,

Sailing in the TBF this year was a lot of fun with all that wind, but it also made me realize that a lot of things don't happen quite the same way they teach them in ASA classes, especially when you're single-handing. The two biggest problems I've had are somewhat related: changing sails (and reefing, for that matter) and using the tiller pilot in the brisk conditions at the end of the race.

First, the tiller pilot. After getting past the Bay Bridge, heading back to finish, I tried to use my Simrad TP22 pilot a couple of times, but because of the wind and chop it just wouldn't keep the course, causing the boat to round up, or even jumping off its peg completely. Is there a way to make it more reliable in those conditions, or is that just an inherent limit of its capabilities? Should it be tied down to the tiller rather than just resting the control rod on the pin, or would it damage the unit? Would a stronger pilot, like the X-5 for instance, work better, or do they all suffer the same problems? I'm guessing I'm doing something wrong with it, seeing as so many people single-hand their boats offshore, where conditions are probably much worse, so I'd appreciate any advice.

Related to that, what's the best way to change head sails and reef in a blow? In ASA101 I've been taught to head straight into the wind on the motor and then drop the sails. Well, firstly, the tiller pilot wouldn't hold course into the wind, so no trips to the fore deck, and secondly, the sail wouldn't drop more than 1/3 of the way. I guess a downhaul line rigged to the hanks could be used to pull it down, but then the rest of the sail is liable to be blown over the side (which is exactly what happened to me). Eventually, I managed to get the sail to drop by heading downwind and blanketing it with the main. Is that the way to do it, or is there another option?

What about reefing? I haven't actually tried to do it, but I'm guessing letting the main luff heading upwind would allow that, although in windy conditions that boom would be pretty dangerous. Are there other ways?

Would very much appreciate any advice on these topics.

Cheers,
Alex.

 

[solosailor]

The best rule of thumb for any autopilot is: it can't sail an unbalance boat anymore than you can. So as an example there is no way I could have used my autopilot (X5) in those conditions either. So treat your sail plan like you would bicycle gears..... you shift BEFORE you need to, not after. I tucked in my reef in the lee of Treasure Island knowing it was going to blow like stink on the other side. I should have shortened the headsail as well but lived with it until the finish.

To set the mainsail reef get the boat going steady with just the jib and autopilot. This usually means not fully trimming in the jib, maybe 70-85% and loosen the main trim. Then reef you main. Once it's boned up WAY more than you think you need sheet it back on. Headsail swaps are much more difficult and I saw some boats go bald headed upwind to not be to overpowered.

 

[BobJ]

Autopilot: The self-contained tiller pilots are okay if the sailplan is balanced, as Greg said. They're best for getting sails up and down while motoring, and light upwind work. They aren't strong enough or quick enough for hard reaching or sailing under spinnaker in any breeze. On a Cal 29 you may need something stronger, especially if you plan to race with a spinnaker and do much in the ocean. The Raymarine X-5 is the minimum for this kind of sailing.

I tie the base of the drive unit down to the socket and sometimes put a rubber band around the tiller pin end to keep it from jumping off. In the ocean you'll want a loose-fitting sock over the drive unit to keep it dry. This may require a clear window over the buttons on your AP so you can still push them or better yet, a remote.

Headsail changes: With hanks you can unclip the bottom 2-3 and clip on the new sail underneath the old. When you're ready, drop the old sail, unclip it and shove it down the forward hatch, switch the halyard over and hoist the new sail. It's also good to keep some extra sail ties tied to the bow pulpit so you can tie down a headsail while you're working up there.

Main reefing: Singlehanding around here you will reef frequently so you need a good system. What hardware do you have? Are there hooks on the sides of the gooseneck? How and where are the clew reefs cleated off? Is the main halyard cleated at the mast or does it run aft to a clutch or cleat? Once I understand your setup I can be more specific.

Many of us have roller furling for the headsails. This is a two-edged sword but on a 29 footer, something to consider. The usual practice is to sail around pre-start with just the main, which gives you great visibility of the other boats and keeps maneuvers simple. Then just before the gun, unroll the jib and take off. You could do something similar with hanks if the halyard is lead aft to the cockpit. When singlehanding most boats it's best to go smaller on the headsail and work the main more.

 

[kotyara]

Thanks for the insight. I'm normally a "trial and error" kind, but with sailing most lessons seem to carry a big price tag, threat of injury, or both.

I was afraid you were going to say that about the pilot. Even though I don't plan on ocean or spinnaker sailing any time soon, having a pilot that's just barely strong enough is probably not a good idea. Is buying a used X-5 a good option? I would assume control rods could go bad, but the rest of the electronics should be pretty reliable, right?

Rubber band is a good idea. I was thinking of something more rigid, but I guess there's no need for a lot of pressure to keep the rod down.

Headsails: I'll try that method next time, should make it faster. When I changed out the jib at the start I first removed it completely, lashed it to the lifelines, and only then clipped the bigger sail on. What made it even slower is that both sails are stored with sheets attached. It was a pain removing the old sheets and re-running the new ones, so I'll have to figure out a way to re-use the same sheets. Would a shackle work, or is the regular bowline the way to go?

Main: There's a reefing/cunningham hook led to the cockpit (which fell out soon after start), plus a line permanently attached to first reef clew, led from the cockpit, to a block on the starboard side of the boom, into the clew, and back to the same block where it's knotted up (should it be tied up on the other side of the boom?). The biggest issue is there's no topping lift, so reefing can only be done heading straight into the wind. To that end, I got a Boomkicker, but it arrived too late for TBF. I'm also planning on adding lazy jacks soon. It would probably be a good idea to add permanent lines to both reef points, both tack and clew. All the lines, including halyards, are led to the clutches in the cockpit. Mast track is a pretty old SS contraption with external slides which tend to stick quite a bit. I'll have to do something about that, at least lubricate it...

Pulling down the sails: one thing I'm still not quite clear on is what are the best points of sail on which to pull the sails down? Greg partially answered that about the main (I'll try it out next time out!), but headsail would be pretty difficult to douse on a close reach. As I mentioned, I've had some success on a run, when the jib is blanketed by the main, but are there any other options? What about reefing the main going downwind?

Furlers: I've considered that, but it looks to be just too much money. Furlers are expensive in their own right, but I'd also have to get new head sails, so the whole changeover would probably cost $5-6K... Maybe in the future, if new sails would be needed...

Greg, on planning ahead, I was debating if I should change to a jib while rounding TI, but I honestly wasn't expecting that much of a blow. Reffing the main escaped my attention completely, I'll know better next time!

Once again, thanks a lot for the advice.

Cheers,
Alex.

 

[Critter]

Alex,

The reefing method that Greg recommended is the way we teach it in the US Sailing curriculum ... just saying ... US Sailing vs. ASA . You don't want to have to motor to hold the boat into the wind; anyway it's illegal if you're racing.

I don't see how the lack of a topping lift forces you to head directly into the wind. The boom will sag in any case; hopefully you're reefing before you're completely on your ear, but it's not the end of the world if a bit of the boom or the mainsail touches the water.

Reefing the main downwind is just not going to happen with those metal slides and track that you've got if I understood your post. My last main had teflon slugs riding in a mast groove, and it was still very difficult to reef or drop the main downwind.

 

[Critter]

I was very happy with the X5 on the SH TransPac. But a year later it started acting up and wouldn't hold a course. I fiddled with all the settings, redid all the connections, ran the training routine (whatever they call it) from scratch, and nothing helped. Finally I sent the control computer back to Raymarine. I don't recall what they told me - I think it had something to do with corrosion - but it's better now and the charge was minimal if anything.

This is just to say that the electronics, just like the ram, are not entirely bulletproof. But it's still a really good unit, especially for the price.

Max

 

[kotyara]

Max,

I've heard about the "rivalry" between ASA and US Sailing (from ASA guys mostly . Are they really that different? The reason I'm asking is that I'm only one course into the ASA program, so it's not too late to switch. And, to be fair to ASA, it was only Keelboat 101, so they probably just gave use the very basic stuff.

Speaking about sailing schools, are there any other options except ASA and USS? I'm not terribly worried about certification, just want to learn how to sail well.

I've thought about reefing when the boat indeed was on its ear, but the idea of a loose boom flailing about just did not appeal to me. Thinking about it now, I guess a significant heeling angle would actually make it easier, as the boom might not drop as far down. In any case, I'll feel much better once the boomkicker goes in.

Strange that the control unit would have corrosion. As far as I know, marine electronics are usually "potted", so there shouldn't be any moisture access save for external connections. It's reassuring to know they stand behind their units though, especially since it's all modular.

Cheers,
Alex.

 

[BobJ]

AP: Until you're ready to fly a spinnaker you can probably keep working with the Simrad AP. An unbalanced sail plan is slow, so learning what combinations of headsail and main (with and w/out reef) work in varying wind strengths is a better place to focus. I would take a careful look at your AP installation and the "jumping off" problem - it really shouldn't do that. I have to tie down the base (cord) end of my drive unit because the cockpit wall isn't vertical, so when the drive is in compression it pops out. The tiller pin end hasn't been much of a problem although the plastic caps (with the hole) get worn out and loose. Last, electric autopilots are not something I would buy used. Maybe on E-Bay from a known retailer, but only if it comes with a warranty.

Headsails: I started down the wrong track with my initial post about changing to the genoa during the 3BF. For the Bay races, few singlehanders try to change headsails during a race. Most wait until the last minute to choose which headsail to drag on deck (to see what the wind looks like). Then you usually live with your choice, especially if the wind is increasing. If it starts out blowing and turns into a drifter I'll make a change, but that's way easier!

I have two sets of jib sheets (plus reaching leads w/J Locks). I don't use any shackles on the regular sheets because I have a fresh paint job on my mast, but snap shackles could speed things up if you have only one set of sheets.

Main reefing: I'd go aloft and make sure the sail track is tight and straight (with no fasteners protruding), and work some beeswax onto it as you come back down. Same for the slides - that all needs to run smoothly. The Boomkicker will help but you can also take up on the clew reef a bit (not tight) before you lower the halyard and that will hold the boom up while you set up the luff (which you do first). The combo cunningham/tack reef hook is a little wonky but common. I would re-rig it so you can cinch it tight up at the mast. Better would be to keep that hook dedicated to the cunningham (which you do want to adjust underway) and rig a separate strop for the tack reef(s). Similarly, I would set up the clew reefing line(s) to be handled at the mast. The extra friction of running them to the cockpit isn't worth the wear-and-tear on the gooseneck and other gear. I'd work with all this before installing lazy jacks - I don't think you'll need them and they create problems of their own.

You need to be going upwind to reef and hoist/lower main and jib. Not head-to-wind necessarily, but the sails can't be plastered against the rig.

With a cockpit-led main halyard, here are my reefing steps. It takes maybe 30 seconds.

As Greg suggests, I'm sailing along close-hauled or just cracked off slightly. If I have a choice, I try to be on the tack that puts the main halyard on the high side. If it's really windy and rough I may heave-to first, otherwise I'm sailing along on jib only.

I loosen the cunningham, vang and then the mainsheet so there's no load on the sail.

I take up the main halyard on the winch and then open the clutch, easing the halyard to a mark that is already on the halyard.

I go to the mast and put the tack ring (for the reef) over the hook at the gooseneck and cinch up the halyard so the ring won't fall off. (I have clam cleats on both sides of the mast for temporarily holding halyards.) Then I go back aft and grind the halyard to bone up the main's luff.

Back to the mast to do the same with the clew reef, which on my boat exits the boom under the gooseneck where there are cam cleats. If it's windy (why else would you be reefing?) it's hard to get the clew reef down tight. If you have a second reef you can take up on that one a bit to unload the first one, or ease the mainsheet out more. If necessary, I either step into a bight of the (edit) reefing line so I can use my weight to pull it down, or pass it around my butt so I can push back against it to get it tight.

Inside the Bay I don't do anything with the loose sail along the boom but the boom on my boat is fairly high. With a lower boom, visibility could be a problem and you might want to roll the loose sail up and tie it off, at least at the aft end. You can also tie an "earring" through the new clew and around the boom, if the boom is angling down and the new clew isn't snug against it. (Edit) This involves dangling out on the lee side and messing with a moving boom, so I try to avoid it.

Back in the cockpit, trim the vang and sheet in.

After many years of screwing with them, I'm concluding that jib furlers are over-rated on boats our size. I am playing with spinnaker furlers a lot more though!

Schools: I have a bias towards the school I teach for (not the same as Max's). You're in the right place for now.

 

[kotyara]

Bob,

Thank you for a very thorough reply. I think I'll print it out and keep on the boat for future reference.

AP: The reason I'm asking about X-5 is that there's a used one listed on Latitude that's been used for a single SHTP. It's about half the new price, so it's tempting.

Genoa advice: Bob, you did say "use 150% if it's light". I just chose to ignore that last part In retrospect, I'm glad I kept it on, it gave me a whole new appreciation for a boat on the edge of loosing control. Next time though...

Good point about banging the shackle on the mast, didn't think of that. Would a soft shackle be strong/reliable enough to attach the sheets?

Mast track: at some point I'm planning on fabricating a bolt-on track out of UHMW (a la Tides Marine), but until that time I'll put some wax on it. Not sure if it'll help too much, the slides are pretty old and bent loose, but it wouldn't hurt.

Thanks again,
Alex.

 

[BobJ]

I saw that ad too. I think Raymarine's warranties are two years. If it's still under warranty and you can install it quickly to test it, that might be okay. Out of the box they tend to either work or not.

Yeah, sorry about the headsail advice. I was thinking of most past 3BF's (which were drifters) on that one!

I have a few soft shackles on my boat but for jib sheets I think tying a bowline is faster.

I really would go over the main track carefully. The time when the main won't come down at all will be the worst possible time (Murphy's Law etc.)

US Sailing is the better program IMO, but the keys are the school and the instructor. I'll bet Max would be great (seriously).

 

[Critter]

Thanks Bob. I really shouldn't badmouth ASA. I know one guy who teaches both systems and says there's not much difference. As Bob says, the school and the instructor are what count.

 

[kotyara]

Thanks Bob. I really shouldn't badmouth ASA. I know one guy who teaches both systems and says there's not much difference. As Bob says, the school and the instructor are what count.

Oh, come on, I was just getting the beer and popcorn out

But in all seriousness, are there any other schools or instructors, aside from ASA and USS, that might be worth looking into? Maybe not now, but after going through the other programs?

 

[Wylieguy]

Alex, I could be catty (pun intended) and suggest you invest in a Wyliecat 30. Makes headsail changes a snap! But instead I'll run through my method for headsail changes with hankons.

I decide on which headsail I'll hoist well before the start, often in the berth, based on weather forecasts, etc. If I'm using a 150, I'll hank it on. Then I hank on a 125 on at the bottom of the forestay (below the 150's bottom hank - I have Kame move that hank up far enough to do this) and tie the smaller sail down on deck. It has a 2nd set of sheets and I run them back to the cockpit. All of this in the berth.

If I need to change down, I get the boat balanced going upwind with the autohelm and drop the headsail, gather it up and tie it down on the opposite side of the deck. Then I unhank it and tie down the luff. The new headsail is already hanked on, so I switch the haylard, to the new sail and hoist.

I sailed my Newport 30 (similar to a Cal 29) using an Autohelm 1000+ and it worked if the boat was balanced. It was even easier with my Tuna (but, then, everything was).

I think the most important advice for singlehanders has been given and repeated in the other posts. Reef/change down early. Keep looking ahead to see what's happening, be very aware of wind speed increases, sea state, whatever. Waiting until the boat's on its ear makes changing difficult and dangerous. Did I mention changing down sooner rather than later?

Pat Broderick

Pat Broderick

 

[kotyara]

A big ol' blanket that even reefs itself? Naa, that'll be too easy Mind you, I might change my mind next time I get caught in wind like that with genoa and full main up. It is a stunning boat though, especially with laminate sails.

Sounds like a great idea, I'll have to try it. I don't think the bottom hanks on my sails are far enough up to do what you're describing, but I guess they're not too hard to move. Worst case, I could leave a few hanks on the top loose.
Doesn't the lazy sail interfere with the one that's hoisted up? Or does it not matter much that close to the deck? Do you have an extra set of leads for the second set of sheets, or are you using those wide multi-sheet blocks? I looked at them at some point, but they looked like a sure way to get the sheets tangled up.

I'll definitely remember the "planning ahead" advice now. Aside from being surprised by the wind strength at the end, I really thought I could reef and change jibs at any time. Now that I know how hard it is, I'll think twice next time.

Cheers,
Alex.

 

[JohnS]

Alex,

Pat's method of pre-hanking a second headsail works well. The extra sail should not be a problem for the active sail, especially if you tie it up neatly along the rail. It should only affect the very bottom of the active sail, and then only on one tack. If your hanks don't leave enough room for the "back-up" sail, just leave the bottom hank (or maybe two) loose. This should be fine provided you have proper luff tension on the active sail.

You will need a separate set of leads for the extra sail. Running two sets of sheets through even the wide lead cars is a recipe for a mess that would make the Gordian knot proud. Also, with dedicated leads for each sail you can have them pre-set for location and know they are in the right place when you switch sails.

As you've already heard, planning ahead is really important. Another thing to remember is that when single-handed you may need to take more dramatic action to make a sail change. It might require sailing a less than ideal course for a few minutes to bring the boat into a position where it is balanced enough to allow for some work on the fore deck etc. This is something that almost never happens on a fully crewed boat. Managing a boat and keeping it moving efficiently in (mostly) the right direction is a completely different chess game that racing a boat with a full crew. Just keep thinking and trying different ways to make things work and you'll start to figure it out. Keep an eye out for what other people are doing, some things you see will prove useful, others may not, but you will always learn something.