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Standing rigging

S

SeanRhone

New member
A some of you know I recently bought a Hobie 33. The currently standing rigging is the standard 3/16 SS 316 wire and I have a very old headsail furling system. I want to change out the standing rigging to 3/8, I have not talked with a rigger yet so I'm hoping this makes sense.

Question - What are your thoughts on moving from the 3/16 wire to 3/8? The boat originally had 3/16 but since I want to race this boat offshore I would like a beefier rig. Also, moving up to 3/8 the current headsail roller furling system will no longer work, should I replace to just buy hank on sails?
 
I look forward to a real answer from someone with rigging smarts, but just doubling all the wiring seems a bit heavy-handed to me. There are so many variables, and I suspect a lightweight boat like the Hobie is going to be especially sensitive to changes like that. Definitely get a professional rigger's input.
 
And that's why I'm asking here. You say you think the boat would be "sensitive" to these changes, but I'm not sure why it would be; I've got a lot to learn before I hopefully make it to the starting line of the 2018 SHTP.
 
Why would you not increase the size from 3/16 to 1/4"? I think 3/8" is way to large for a H33. I have much more stress on my 31' boat and use 1/4". The 3/8" is heavier...... a lot heavier than 3/16" so more "sensitive" means it's performance would be diminished with more weight aloft, especially shorthanded on an already tippy boat.
 
I said 3/8 because that is what came to my mind 1st. I'm not against going to 1/4 if the rigger, or people here, say it's better. I'm just trying to prep the boat for offshore racing and the 3/16 wire just looks too small.
 
The weight increase going to 3/8 from 3/16 is on the order of 290% (as in 3 times as heavy). Assuming something like 15 pounds of wire (ignoring terminal fittings and not even using a cocktail napkin for this "analysis") for 3/16 your suggested upgrade will add about 30 pounds aloft. That's a huge amount of weight in exactly the wrong place and all for an unnecessary modification. Even going to 1/4 will almost double the weight of the wire (Area = piRsquared thus 3/16 A = 0.11 and 1/4 A = 0.2). As Solo said you already have a "tippy" boat and adding weight aloft will make it even more so.

The strength increase is from about 4,000 pounds breaking strength to about 15,000. Wire size/strength specifications for a vessel are based largely on the righting moment your boat can generate and when you talk to a rigger (and you need to talk to a rigger) you will likely find that the stock wire size is fine for your light boat. What you do need to spend time and money on is making sure all the bits and pieces are in good condition and properly assembled.

Good luck with the new boat.
 
3/8 is crazy. on a ULDB you would be better off considering synthetic pbo or maybe rod. but since you are in my division
, sure why not 3/8 or even 1/2?


Seriously, you can ask Gilles this question at next weeks seminar.
 
So, from everyone's input, and I appreciate it, it sounds like I'm over-thinking this and should not be trying to increase the standing rigging size.

Wish I could attend the seminar, I live on the east coast.
 
Not to pile on, but even increasing rigging to 1/4" may have unintended consequences, including the need for bigger turnbuckles and clevis pins, spreader tip fittings, mast T tangs, possibly even chainplates, unless drilling stainless is your thing.

The Hobie 33 rig was designed for five crew hiking on the rail, and the stability that provides.

As a suggestion, I would recommend removing for inspection the 30 plus year old chainplates. S.S. has a funny way of becoming cheesy on its backside when bolted to a bulkhead.
 
I have a Wilderness 30 which is a tender (tippy) boat and would not consider adding weight aloft.

I am planning to do the 2018 SHTP and I will renew the rig, hopefully before the year of the race, and would not go bigger.
Currently have 1/4 ss wire.

Maybe if I won a pile of money in the lottery I would go with a full carbon rig (light and strong), but that would also mean another hit to my PHRF rating.
 
If I won the lottery I'd probably buy a new boat instead of fixing up a 30+ year old boat.

I do plan on having all the rigging inspected and replaced, guess that is the benefit of a boat without a lot of systems / hardware.
 
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