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Around the World from West coast?

Thanks, I ended up manually sanding the hole and all is good now.

Not so fast ... I went up the mast and tried to install one of the custom sheaves. The shaft goes through the sheave; the shaft goes through the mast. The shaft does not go through the mast and the sheave ... Well, more precisely it does go through both one way but not the other (the way it has to go). Mistery.
 
I used to wonder why I was being told to watch for halyard chafe. I figured, well, if it hasn't chafed so far, why would it start chafing now? Well, for the usual reason: because things break.

My jib halyard started showing chafe marks near the shackle. I went up the rig and discovered that the sheave had broken a bit on the side. And now I find myself trying to find a similar size sheave with no luck!
OD: 75 mm
ID: 16-18 mm
Width: 14.5 mm

I'm stuck. Suggestions for repairs/replacements? I was thinking of grinding the sharp edges away.

View attachment 6884

For those wondering how the sheave broke: the tack got loose when hoisting the job and when pulling the last bit hard, nothing stopped the head from hitting the sheave.
 
Not so fast ... I went up the mast and tried to install one of the custom sheaves. The shaft goes through the sheave; the shaft goes through the mast. The shaft does not go through the mast and the sheave ... Well, more precisely it does go through both one way but not the other (the way it has to go). Mistery.

Thanks to Ants for helping bore the sheave further. Lesson learned: even though something looks out of sorts on the boat, there probably is a good reason for it and if I try to improve things I'm in for surprises.
 
I was looking at the cost of a bottom job for Changabang as the last one done is already coming to the end of its life. It's really never stopped any growth but now, it's more like providing a fertile environment for marine growth!

I noticed that the rate for paintwork is now going at $160/hr in the Bay Area. So this is not a thread about this rate. It's a question about where I could go South or North the Coast to find boatyards with more affordable rates. Any suggestion is welcome!
 
I was looking at the cost of a bottom job for Changabang as the last one done is already coming to the end of its life. It's really never stopped any growth but now, it's more like providing a fertile environment for marine growth!

I noticed that the rate for paintwork is now going at $160/hr in the Bay Area. So this is not a thread about this rate. It's a question about where I could go South or North the Coast to find boatyards with more affordable rates. Any suggestion is welcome!

About Bethel Island...

I both called and dropped by Bethel Harbor and talked to the harbormaster about hauling out there. Now, my boat is small and not glamorous, but even though I was polite and physically stood in front of the harbormaster (harbormistress) and talked to her no phone calls or inquiries were ever returned. Also, not sure that there's enough water for Changabang, there.

Diablo Boatworks is also on Bethel Island. Ramon is a very nice guy, the prices are good but the yard is truly tiny. ~Tiny~. Again, I doubt that there's enough water in the slough to get Changabang up there. On the mainland, across from Bethel Island is the Marine Emporium. Right now the yard is absolutely packed, he stores a lot of Delta powerboats in the yard during the off-season. I have seen a couple of pretty good sized sailboats in the yard, but to get to Marine Emporium without dropping the mast, you'll have to take the same slough around the SW side of Bethel Island, as you'd be taking to get to Diablo Boatworks. It's possible that you could get in there at a high tide, but I have my doubts.
 
I've been to Napa Valley Marina.

People there were good to work with.
DIY rates were good. One of the few yards to offer this.
Chandlery costs were a bit inflated and paint must be purchased from them or pay $10 per foot corkage fee.

Getting up the Napa river was tricky with the 6 feet of draft Nightmare had.

There are spots of 7-10 feet MLLW on the chart.
instructions from them are here; https://www.napavalleymarina.com/directions-by-water

Check with the marina for the haulout. They use an adjustable hydraulic trailer and depth may be a problem at the ramp.
 
There is a do it yourself yard here in Brookings, Oregon. You must have insurance. Round trip haul-out fee is $600 and yard days are $60/day for the first week, then $50/day until 1 month, then $30 a day thereafter, retroactive. So if you're out for a month its $30/day for the entire time.
No one here hires the work done. Better to do it yourself and save some money.
 
I believe Moss Landing allows DIY work, or it did. On your boat is likely 20 min south with the A0 up.
 
If you have structural lashings keeping your rig up ... It could be worth checking them out. Here's a picture of Changabang's headstay lashing after 5-6 years ...
I was told it would be an easy job to release the turnbuckle to loosen the headstay and gain access to the lashing. That couldn't be further from the true. Turning those turnbuckles was some serious work. And getting the lashing just the right length was a matter of many trials. I think it may be a little too long. We'll see what a sea trial says ...
PXL_20230527_161144785.jpg
 
Is that RUST? Philippe, tell me that isn't rust! Rusty Dyneema. Sounds like a contestant on the World Wide Wrestling circuit.
 
If you have structural lashings keeping your rig up ... It could be worth checking them out. Here's a picture of Changabang's headstay lashing after 5-6 years ...
I was told it would be an easy job to release the turnbuckle to loosen the headstay and gain access to the lashing. That couldn't be further from the true. Turning those turnbuckles was some serious work. And getting the lashing just the right length was a matter of many trials. I think it may be a little too long. We'll see what a sea trial says .

Maintaining turnbuckles on a regular basis is good practice. Never know when they might have to be unscrewed to replacing a failing shroud or to release a mast over the side. Usually the headstay is the last to let go. Tell us PJ if the failing headstay lashing is at the stem/bow fitting, or at the waterline holding the bobstay. If at the waterline, I could see it being vulnerable to collisions with floating objects.
 
Tell us PJ if the failing headstay lashing is at the stem/bow fitting, or at the waterline holding the bobstay. If at the waterline, I could see it being vulnerable to collisions with floating objects.

The lashing goes to the bow fitting. After closer inspection, four strands were cut clear and 3 others partially frayed in one spot. Other spots were damaged but not as bad.

The rust comes from the pin holding the lashing on the bow fitting. Arguably that piece could be refinished.
PXL_20230528_195705642~2.jpg
 
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The lashing goes to the bow fitting. After closer inspection, four strands were cut clear and 3 others partially frayed in one spot. Other spots were damaged but not as bad. The rust comes from the pin holding the lashing on the bow fitting. Arguably that piece could be refinished.
View attachment 8449

If the lashing goes to the bow fitting, and there are 7 strands either cut or frayed. 1) this is in plain sight, why not noticed? 2) Is there something sharp or abrasive wearing the dyneema lashing? A headstay lashing should not have much movement in any direction and little chafe. Something needing chafe relief appears to need attention at the bow fitting. But you already knew that. Lucky the headstay lashing didn't fail and the mast fall backwards.
 
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