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Interested in a boat for 2018 TransPac
- Thread starter jamottep
- Start date
I was at Brickyard Cove today. Traffic wasn't bad as I left late in the morning and returned about 6pm.
I was asked to move the trailer to a smaller slot since my boat & trailer fit under the 30.5 max for 30' slips. It's a tight fit.
I went to fix the navigation lights and bring back a few items to the boat. I can't run the dehumidifier anymore (not allowed) and the boat is wet inside again. If anyone wants a free dehumidifier ...
After the rains the bilge was full. I tried to pump it dry but not much was coming out. The pin holding the handle had come off and putting it back in place was an interesting feat: my head down the hatch with a hand pushing the pin and the other trying to keep the handle in place to align the pin and the hole, with no eye seeing what I was doing. It took a bit of trying ... Unfortunately that pin is not secured in place as it looks like the bolt and nut are missing. Gosworth sells it for $2.10 but shipping is prohibitive ...
Next was fixing the navigation lights. How even the smallest boat projects turn into 4 hour efforts I do not know ... The navigation lights are ATTWOOD 3500 Series LED, 2 NM bi-color. There's also a guard protecting it. Removing the guard proved interesting; 3 long bolts were holding into place, with nuts on the other side. Of course screwing the bolt off ... the nut would go with it. So I used vice pliers to keep the nut in place (the pliers were stuck against the hull). All of this is happening in that tight corner above and under deck. Of course some nuts went rolling. I finally got to open the nav lights box and found only one cable (from the battery) connected to the lights. The cables were live. What seemed to have happen is that due to salt corrosion one of the power cables broke off. There was no way to "re-attach" it so I connected it to the cable connecting the LEDs. That seems to work. I think what happened here is that the base of the box was bolted flush with the deck, but the deck is not flat, causing a bit of a bend, where water found its way. Hopefully this fix will last (I did put some of that rubberish putty in there). We'll see.
I got to meet Shad who was bringing his Olson 30 down from Montana. The boat was going through a general inspection. It loos great! Competition is building up
Anyone available to help me go up the mast tomorrow or Sunday?
I was asked to move the trailer to a smaller slot since my boat & trailer fit under the 30.5 max for 30' slips. It's a tight fit.
I went to fix the navigation lights and bring back a few items to the boat. I can't run the dehumidifier anymore (not allowed) and the boat is wet inside again. If anyone wants a free dehumidifier ...
After the rains the bilge was full. I tried to pump it dry but not much was coming out. The pin holding the handle had come off and putting it back in place was an interesting feat: my head down the hatch with a hand pushing the pin and the other trying to keep the handle in place to align the pin and the hole, with no eye seeing what I was doing. It took a bit of trying ... Unfortunately that pin is not secured in place as it looks like the bolt and nut are missing. Gosworth sells it for $2.10 but shipping is prohibitive ...
Next was fixing the navigation lights. How even the smallest boat projects turn into 4 hour efforts I do not know ... The navigation lights are ATTWOOD 3500 Series LED, 2 NM bi-color. There's also a guard protecting it. Removing the guard proved interesting; 3 long bolts were holding into place, with nuts on the other side. Of course screwing the bolt off ... the nut would go with it. So I used vice pliers to keep the nut in place (the pliers were stuck against the hull). All of this is happening in that tight corner above and under deck. Of course some nuts went rolling. I finally got to open the nav lights box and found only one cable (from the battery) connected to the lights. The cables were live. What seemed to have happen is that due to salt corrosion one of the power cables broke off. There was no way to "re-attach" it so I connected it to the cable connecting the LEDs. That seems to work. I think what happened here is that the base of the box was bolted flush with the deck, but the deck is not flat, causing a bit of a bend, where water found its way. Hopefully this fix will last (I did put some of that rubberish putty in there). We'll see.
I got to meet Shad who was bringing his Olson 30 down from Montana. The boat was going through a general inspection. It loos great! Competition is building up
Anyone available to help me go up the mast tomorrow or Sunday?
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Today was my first sail out of Brickyard. It was a nice day. I wanted to explore the TBF course. For the most part it was good wind. I didn't get to check the Red Rock. That'll be for another day.
I sailed to the starting line then went to the Golden Gate bridge and under. It was hard to turn around and not only because wind and tide were collaborating to push me in the open. Getting back took a while and I went back to the starting line and Yerba Buena island. I discovered that I need to give it a wide berth to avoid its shadow. I motored a bit. Coming back took a while as the wind was very light. I motored again. Finally I reached the wind again and started making my way to Brickyard. It was getting dark so the lights went on. Approaching the marina I took the sails down and motored. I discovered that the steaming light doesn't work too.
About 150 yards from the dock the engine died out of gas. I resorted to the SUP paddle to make my way upwind.
If putting the boat in the water singlehanded is a piece of work at Brickyard; taking it out is harder.
I think it's about 45/60 minutes more time spent moving the boat than at SYC. Hopefully things will improve.
All in all it was a good long day.
I sailed to the starting line then went to the Golden Gate bridge and under. It was hard to turn around and not only because wind and tide were collaborating to push me in the open. Getting back took a while and I went back to the starting line and Yerba Buena island. I discovered that I need to give it a wide berth to avoid its shadow. I motored a bit. Coming back took a while as the wind was very light. I motored again. Finally I reached the wind again and started making my way to Brickyard. It was getting dark so the lights went on. Approaching the marina I took the sails down and motored. I discovered that the steaming light doesn't work too.
About 150 yards from the dock the engine died out of gas. I resorted to the SUP paddle to make my way upwind.
If putting the boat in the water singlehanded is a piece of work at Brickyard; taking it out is harder.
I think it's about 45/60 minutes more time spent moving the boat than at SYC. Hopefully things will improve.
All in all it was a good long day.
Good on ya, Phillipe, for getting around the course today! The back side of Yerba Buena is a bad place to be in an ebb tide and no wind. Give it a wide berth. Lots of people got stuck in there last year and some were "bumping" the CG Cutter. The Coasties frown on this....big time. Go wide. When I was berthed at TI, I would head straight for the cutter to drop my sails because I could count on the nice calm conditions while it was blowing mid 20s just outside of the island's shadow. In light wind and an ebb, it's near impossible to fight your way out.
I can probably help you with mast climbing this week (Thursday or Friday), if you are free. I felt badly that I couldn't offer help today, but was busy all weekend with boat projects, too.
I can probably help you with mast climbing this week (Thursday or Friday), if you are free. I felt badly that I couldn't offer help today, but was busy all weekend with boat projects, too.
What was interesting is that I was sailing downwind when I got to West side of Yerba Buena Island, from the GG, when the wind died. I motored round the South end of it, then, on the East side, I sailed downwind again ...
Thank you! And good on you for getting things done!
If it's not done by Thursday it'll have to wait as my wife is leaving for a couple of weeks, which leaves me alone to care for our daughter. I should be at the marina tomorrow again and I'll update here if plans for Thursday. I may have to spend a little more time up there as I need to figure out what the problem is and it could be up there, with the connector or the connections to the connector. Mystery ...
Worked on the boat again:
1. Locked the handle pin of the bilge pump handle with a bolt and self locking nut;
2. Went up the first spreaders 3 times to fix the steaming light (it was a connector in the cabin) and re-secure the caps;
3. Went up the second spreaders to re-secure the caps (with tape);
4. Replaced the Kidde fire extinguishers with the new ones (recall).
No sailing after all that time pulling my 230lbs up the mast.
1. Locked the handle pin of the bilge pump handle with a bolt and self locking nut;
2. Went up the first spreaders 3 times to fix the steaming light (it was a connector in the cabin) and re-secure the caps;
3. Went up the second spreaders to re-secure the caps (with tape);
4. Replaced the Kidde fire extinguishers with the new ones (recall).
No sailing after all that time pulling my 230lbs up the mast.
I was checking battery voltage the other day and playing with the switches ... Some readings didn't make sense. I spoke to Pete Rowland, who (freely) advised me to try to charge the battery using a regular charger. I bought a charger and tried to charge one of the battery. The next day the diagnostic light indicated the battery couldn't hold a charge. I tried to charge the second one, with not much more luck. I had both batteries tested at West Marine and they were both due for replacement. One was past the 18 months warranty by 12 days but West Marine Richmond honored the warranty (yeah!) and the other one was 11 months old.
Now, the previous owner also lost a battery during his PacCup bid. I think there's something wrong with the setup. Just maybe ...
Here's how it goes:
1. Solar panel feeds into controller;
2. Controller feeds into a 1+2 switch;
3. There's a 1+2 switch to the 12 V panel too;
4. There's a mini automatic relay in the middle of it all.
I'm not sure I see what an automatic relay can do where there are manual switches. I've been advised to take it out. That's my plan when I'll put the new batteries in.
I have one home and I put it on the charger: it was barely 50% charged coming out of the store.
I'm really happy I caught this now.
Now, the previous owner also lost a battery during his PacCup bid. I think there's something wrong with the setup. Just maybe ...
Here's how it goes:
1. Solar panel feeds into controller;
2. Controller feeds into a 1+2 switch;
3. There's a 1+2 switch to the 12 V panel too;
4. There's a mini automatic relay in the middle of it all.
I'm not sure I see what an automatic relay can do where there are manual switches. I've been advised to take it out. That's my plan when I'll put the new batteries in.
I have one home and I put it on the charger: it was barely 50% charged coming out of the store.
I'm really happy I caught this now.
I now have two fully charged batteries. I've taken the automatic relay out of the system. I'm attaching a diagram. If I read this properly any time there'd be a charge on the system then the relay would connect both batteries, in effect bypassing both switches. I'm not sure that's really helpful.
Even if they had gone bad I can't see how the two switches would have caused the batteries to fail. That leaves the controller and the automatic relay. The latter is out of the picture now.
While working on the batteries I ended pulling on one of the strops that keep them latched down and it came right off. I re-secured those strops.
I re-bedded the stern hatch latch screws to prevent some of the leaking there.
Tomorrow I'll re-install the batteries and will do a few tests:
1. Controller: voltage before and after controller; voltage after solar panel fuse;
2. Switches: make sure they do their jobs;
2.1. Charge in switch: connect one battery only, switch to that battery and controller should show charging; switch to the other battery (absent) to see lack of charging; switch to 1+2 to see charging. No load on this.
2.2. 12 V panel out switch: same testing but test with load (e.g. cabin light)
3. Measure voltage in each possible configuration.
I wonder if it's possible for a solar panel to go bad. Or maybe there's something wrong in the fuse panel/load, causing constant discharge and the tiny solar panel can't keep up, causing chronic low charge? I'm not sure because I regularly checked the voltage and it looked good.
Even if they had gone bad I can't see how the two switches would have caused the batteries to fail. That leaves the controller and the automatic relay. The latter is out of the picture now.
While working on the batteries I ended pulling on one of the strops that keep them latched down and it came right off. I re-secured those strops.
I re-bedded the stern hatch latch screws to prevent some of the leaking there.
Tomorrow I'll re-install the batteries and will do a few tests:
1. Controller: voltage before and after controller; voltage after solar panel fuse;
2. Switches: make sure they do their jobs;
2.1. Charge in switch: connect one battery only, switch to that battery and controller should show charging; switch to the other battery (absent) to see lack of charging; switch to 1+2 to see charging. No load on this.
2.2. 12 V panel out switch: same testing but test with load (e.g. cabin light)
3. Measure voltage in each possible configuration.
I wonder if it's possible for a solar panel to go bad. Or maybe there's something wrong in the fuse panel/load, causing constant discharge and the tiny solar panel can't keep up, causing chronic low charge? I'm not sure because I regularly checked the voltage and it looked good.
They have 4 positions: off, 1 on, 2 on, 1+2.
There's one controller and, if you consider the switches as passive, it is connected directly to the batteries, unless I'm missing something, which is very common.
Daydreamer
SAILOR
That setup allows you to choose which battery to charge and which one to draw from, or both at any time.
The manufacturer of my panels recommended not disconnecting them under load / while they are putting out power.
I suppose to prevent any voltage spike from causing damage.
With that thought in mind, I would make sure the switch between the controller and batteries maintains contact with both when switching between batteries.
I would also set that switch to both when leaving the boat to top up both batteries. Keeping in mind the weaker of the two will affect the other.
To check for a parasitic draw on the system, use a digital multimeter with an amperage reading, connected in series between the switch and accessory panel. With everything turned off there should be zero amps reading.
As you turn things on, like a masthead tricolor, you can see how many amps it draws and you can use that information for your electrical budget.
The panel should have a diode which prevents it from discharging when there is not enough sunlight. The charge controller should mitigate this and could be checked with an ammeter as well.
Also check all the connections for ANY sign of corrosion. Corrosion causes resistance and a loss of voltage, and heat as loads increase.
The manufacturer of my panels recommended not disconnecting them under load / while they are putting out power.
I suppose to prevent any voltage spike from causing damage.
With that thought in mind, I would make sure the switch between the controller and batteries maintains contact with both when switching between batteries.
I would also set that switch to both when leaving the boat to top up both batteries. Keeping in mind the weaker of the two will affect the other.
To check for a parasitic draw on the system, use a digital multimeter with an amperage reading, connected in series between the switch and accessory panel. With everything turned off there should be zero amps reading.
As you turn things on, like a masthead tricolor, you can see how many amps it draws and you can use that information for your electrical budget.
The panel should have a diode which prevents it from discharging when there is not enough sunlight. The charge controller should mitigate this and could be checked with an ammeter as well.
Also check all the connections for ANY sign of corrosion. Corrosion causes resistance and a loss of voltage, and heat as loads increase.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Batteries are back in the boat. I didn't do much measuring because ... I shorted my voltmeter ....duh!
The setup in Double Espresso is actually two setup:
1. One for the trickle charger aka the tiny solar panel on the stern hatch, which is connected directly to the 12 V fuse panel (with a switch);
2. One for the 100W solar panel, which feeds into the 1/2/1+2 switch (which goes to the batteries next).
I did find out a few things, mainly that there is an order to connect things to the controller:
1. Load first (the controller can power up stuff directly);
2. Batteries second (that will turn the controller on);
3. Solar panel(s) last.
That is very impractical (especially with the trickle charger) and the current system doesn't really allow for that sequence. Say I set up the system correctly when I install the panels and start with charging battery 1. Battery 1 gets to full charge. I decide to charge battery 2. Well, I have to disconnect the solar panels, turn off the controller, switch battery (preferably through the 1+2 setting to prevent turning everything off (auto-pilot)). Turn controller back on and then re-connect the solar panel.
How did I find this out? I disconnected the batteries from the controller and it was still showing a full battery The solar panel was powering it. SoI called Morningstar tech support ...
In fact the light of the switch for the trickle charger on the panel was always on, whether the switch was in the on or off position. Basically the controller lets a voltage go through (even without batteries connected to it), which is powering the panel light.
So ... I'll need a switch on the + of the tiny stern hatch solar panel. And I think I can simply disconnect the large solar panel at the panel itself, although that is unlikely to be very practical. I can also disconnect it inside from inside the lazarette.
There was also an inverter (Cobra CPI 880) in the system, which I disconnected.
Now ... to fix the voltmeter ... and maybe buy a proper ammeter or put one in the system to measure draw.
Batteries are back in the boat. I didn't do much measuring because ... I shorted my voltmeter ....duh!
The setup in Double Espresso is actually two setup:
1. One for the trickle charger aka the tiny solar panel on the stern hatch, which is connected directly to the 12 V fuse panel (with a switch);
2. One for the 100W solar panel, which feeds into the 1/2/1+2 switch (which goes to the batteries next).
I did find out a few things, mainly that there is an order to connect things to the controller:
1. Load first (the controller can power up stuff directly);
2. Batteries second (that will turn the controller on);
3. Solar panel(s) last.
That is very impractical (especially with the trickle charger) and the current system doesn't really allow for that sequence. Say I set up the system correctly when I install the panels and start with charging battery 1. Battery 1 gets to full charge. I decide to charge battery 2. Well, I have to disconnect the solar panels, turn off the controller, switch battery (preferably through the 1+2 setting to prevent turning everything off (auto-pilot)). Turn controller back on and then re-connect the solar panel.
How did I find this out? I disconnected the batteries from the controller and it was still showing a full battery
The solar panel was powering it. SoI called Morningstar tech support ...In fact the light of the switch for the trickle charger on the panel was always on, whether the switch was in the on or off position. Basically the controller lets a voltage go through (even without batteries connected to it), which is powering the panel light.
So ... I'll need a switch on the + of the tiny stern hatch solar panel. And I think I can simply disconnect the large solar panel at the panel itself, although that is unlikely to be very practical. I can also disconnect it inside from inside the lazarette.
There was also an inverter (Cobra CPI 880) in the system, which I disconnected.
Now ... to fix the voltmeter ... and maybe buy a proper ammeter or put one in the system to measure draw.
An interesting jury rig on the main: https://www.yachtsinternational.com/lifestyle/ondine
I had a look at the solar panel controller today. It was showing as charging and the state of charge of the batteries as >50% but not 100%. I unplugged everything and used my NOCO G7200 to fully charge them and noticed that ... they were fully charged according to the G7200. I've left the 5W solar panel off. I'm going to bring the 100W solar panel and see how that behaves. There is something going on there and the only smart device that remains is the controller. Soon I'll have my voltmeter fuse replaced and will be able to check voltage readings here and there.
Hi all,
As some of you may recall, I was actively putting together a 36 foot trimaran, The Prodigal Son, for the 2016 SHTP. I had to drop out when 6 months before the race my wife, my wife was diagnosed with cancer. As a result of that ongoing battle, I have not had time to spend one minute on the water, and have decided to sell that boat. I will be posting an ad within three weeks, in the classified section of this website. The boat has demountable Amas, and comes with its own trailer, and can be delivered anywhere. Its a highly modified hot rod, that can actually be cruised, and has a $15,000 NKE autopilot, still in the box. It would not be realistic timewise to get it ready for the 2018 SHTP race, but there is plenty of time to get it ready for the 2020 race. I should have time within the next three weeks to post the ad.
Jim Bates
As some of you may recall, I was actively putting together a 36 foot trimaran, The Prodigal Son, for the 2016 SHTP. I had to drop out when 6 months before the race my wife, my wife was diagnosed with cancer. As a result of that ongoing battle, I have not had time to spend one minute on the water, and have decided to sell that boat. I will be posting an ad within three weeks, in the classified section of this website. The boat has demountable Amas, and comes with its own trailer, and can be delivered anywhere. Its a highly modified hot rod, that can actually be cruised, and has a $15,000 NKE autopilot, still in the box. It would not be realistic timewise to get it ready for the 2018 SHTP race, but there is plenty of time to get it ready for the 2020 race. I should have time within the next three weeks to post the ad.
Jim Bates