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New Boat 4 Sled

Like Mexico, there is no "weather" in Canada. At least for sailors. The VHF weather channels, at least what can be heard, broadcasts temps and UV index, and gives the normal for the date in Abbotsford. Then reverts to French. "High wind warnings" are almost always flying for the Straits of Georgia, even though nothing more than 20 knots is forecast.

We set off at sunrise from sweet Annette Cove on Prevost Island, bound 28 miles northwest, up the Trincomali Channel for the 3 pm tide gate at Dodd Narrows. It was motoring in smooth water, until it wasn't. At 11 a.m. a North Westerly began to fill abeam the Secretary Islands.

No biggee. Double reef, motor sailing at 4.4 SOG, and all was well.

By noon, all thoughts of Dodd Narrows were put off, and refuge was sought. The wind had built to 25, with gusts to 30. I rolled out about a foot of jib for balance, feathered the main, and we took off on a reach for safe harbor in Pirates Cove, two miles on the starboard beam.

All was well, as WILDFLOWER is currently heavily loaded with two months of cruising supplies and felt no tippy tendencies. But the dinghy technique of feathering was useful when the gusts came through.

We blew through the narrow entrance of Pirate's Cove, and set anchor up under the lee of big fir trees in 11'. I inflated the raft, rowed a stern line ashore to a tree, and we were set. Windy but smooth. 100 feet of scope out forward in clay mud bottom. Eagles overhead settling onto their favorite snags.

The rest of the afternoon was entertaining. Pirates Cove is probably the most popular and picturesque small cove between Nanaimo and Victoria. And often filled to capacity with 25-30 boats, stern tied to rings cemented into the sandstone cliffs.

By 4 pm WILDFLOWER was alone at anchor. 20 cruisers had "blown out" of Pirates Cove, trailing a moderate disarray of dinghies, kayaks, and awnings. Nothing for it but to take a hike ashore, where we found a dozen kayak campers taking refuge, unable to make progress northward.

Tomorrow it will be an early start for Nanaimo, transiting Dodd Narrows at the 8 a.m. slack water.
 
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The saga of SCARLETT RUNNER yesterday in the '14 Pacific Cup is unfortunately not an isolated incident .....it was an extraordinary effort by the Aussie crew of this Reichel-Pugh 52 to extricate themselves. Here's their story:

Day 4 – 140714 – Some troubles

Perhaps yesterday I should not have boasted of great boatspeed and complained about debris. Or perhaps it started when the sun went down and cloud cover veiled the bright moon so that the sea and sky were indistinguishable grey and objects in the water could not be seen. Or perhaps bad luck just comes like a thief in the night.

At 0940 UTC or 0240 local time our boat went from 16 kts to 2 kts as we ran over a large fishing net. The spinnaker came down and we pushed out the boom but could not back off it. Disco and Sammy leant over the side and attached halyards to the net. We hauled part of it up and the immensity of it caused many to swear under their breaths. It was not budging. The net seemed wrapped around the keel or the propeller. We sat like this, going nowhere, working on solutions for what seemed like a long time.

Tim came to the rescue and dived overboard into the dark cold waters with a knife clenched between his teeth. Several different underwater torches gave up before Tim did. He dived and dived on the prop, cutting away the net strand by strand. Eventually, after 45 minutes of extraordinary effort the prop was free. We hauled Tim aboard and rewarded him with a Sea Rug, a hot shower, hot chocolate and time in the bunk. Meanwhile we had cleared the net but our halyard was still attached. For a short while we had a sea anchor dragging out the back until we spiked it clear. We had been dead in the water for 1 ½ hours.

It cost us 20 precious miles.

Other troubles have been in the spinnaker peel department. We have new socks on our kites. They are a great idea in theory as you don’t need to wool the spinnakers each time, but in reality they are difficult to deploy due to over-enthusiastic Velcro or twisted zips. Also, it makes packing a spinnaker a three-person job that takes half an hour and about as fun as using the head in a rough sea state.

This afternoon we passed two boats. A red boat and a blue boat, seemingly in a match race. Both were 40-footers that started the race a few days before us. We flew past them at 15 knots of boatspeed about 100 m away. And for good measure we peeled from the Code 0 to the A3 at the same time and it came off perfectly. Obviously we need an audience in order to lift our performance.

Tonight we are trucking along. Praying to the debris gods to spare us and praying to the wind gods to sustain us.

 
Cruising is just like racing, only different. Being prepared for the unexpected gains net benefits. But sometimes not.

Today WILDFLOWER is safely moored at Egmont's Secret Cove, home of the Skookumchuck (salt water) Rapids. Skookumchuck, it's whirlpools and standing waves, at full cry is reportedly a fearsome thing. We shall see today, hiking three miles to the overlook. We WILL NOT transit the rapids at slack tide, a delicacy of exceptional timing, and a solid engine. Just here for the show.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZvVxt3TFpU

And if you wonder what can happen at Skookumchuck if the timing is bad, check out the tug capsizing, and the rescue of its crew by kayak. Holy Guacamole!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEfUblSDzww
 
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Being trapped by a discarded plastic fish net in mid-Pacific is one thing. Not fun.

Last night (these things only happen at night) I awoke at 2 pm. It was eerily silent: not a wave, hum, squeek, wind rustle. Just silence.

I got up to check around, then returned to the bunk and began to doze. Then I was brought to full alert by a track meet on deck.

It was a family of river otters, checking us out, on parade around the side decks. I can only assume they eventually hoped to get below.

I rapped loudly on the cabin ceiling to let the otters know we were full up. I could hear them scrambling to get off the "ghost ship."

It was only in the morning I realized the potential error of scaring off the river otters. Yesterday I had rigged mosquito netting over the foredeck hatches. For cabin ventilation, the hatches were open.

Had an otter mistaken the netting for firm footing, he would likely have fallen into the cabin, onto the bunk, probably wrapped up in netting like SCARLETT RUNNER's keel.

The vision of a pissed otter below in WILDFLOWER, with no sure avenue of escape, is not one I want to think about.
 
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Sechelt Rapids at Skookumchuck Narrows is an amazing place. It is a 5 mile round trip hike through a rain forest, past a beautiful lake, to the overlook at North Point.

Yesterday, the ebb tide rapids were extra large, running at 17 knots, second fastest tidal rapids in the World.

Whirlpools were numerous and constant. Some as big as a baseball diamond, which would devour large logs. Smaller whirlpools were like miniature inverted water tornados, about a foot across and five feet deep.

At max ebb a giant figure 8 whirlpool appeared. One half was circling clockwise, its adjoining mate was going counterclockwise.

About 40 spectators and two German Shepherds watched from the cliff.

If you come to British Columbia, try not to miss this place.

WILDFLOWER is currently in Maderia Park, Pender Harbour, while we wait out 25 knot northwesterlies blowing outside in the Malaspina Straits. Next stop, probably tomorrow when the breeze is forecast to back SE, is Sturt Bay at the north tip of Texada Island, 22 miles away. The heatwave is over. It was 85 degrees at Princess Louisa Inlet, with the water temp at 75 degrees, good for cooling off.
 

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WILDFLOWER anchored at Prideaux Haven, Desolation Sound, BC. Water temp 77 degrees, good for 50 degrees N latitude.

Nearby is the 135 foot sloop DESTINATION. The top of our mast, at 31 feet, doesn't come to DESTINATION's set of lower spreaders, where two giant satellite domes, and two open array radars are housed. http://www.duboisyachts.com/charter/yacht-charter/destination/

Five sets of spreaders doesn't get you to the top of DESTINATION's mast. Up there is a red light, warning off aircraft at night.

We have little technology in common except for one thing. At both DESTINATION's mast head, and WILDFLOWER's masthead is a Windex wind direction indicator.

These marvelously simple, sensitive, and inexpensive pieces of equipment were co-designed 50 years ago by good sailing friend Lars Bergstrom. At the time, the design criteria was the Windex should be “as sensitive in light air as cigarette smoke”. The solution was a plastic wind vane with low weight and a large fin mounted on a Sapphire jewel bearing like a compass needle.

I first met Lars in the early 70's sailing IMPROBABLE in the SORC in Florida. His inventive mind was matched by his enthusiasm and good nature. Lars later came to play a significant role in the construction design of the legendary IMP.

We've come full circle in 50 years. Windex's mounted 31 feet up on WILDFLOWER's Hobie 18 mast, and 160 feet aloft atop DESTINATION's carbon fiber mast.
 
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Wow. Only 77,000 Euros per week to charter? That's one wicked looking yacht.

I think we use Windexes on the Cal 20s at the club, too. Nice to know we're kinda rubbing with the same shoulders.
 
Great news to hear the Cal-20 DURA MATER is enjoying a new life at CYC!

On another, "new life", chance encounter, a group of us walking the docks at Gorge Harbor, Cortez Island, BC, caught sight of the magnificent 135' motor yacht (aka "ship") ACANIA. Her welcoming owner, Dave Olsen, invited us aboard for a tour.

ACANIA was one of two identical ships built for Al Capone in 1929-30, thus the "AC" in her name. The mobster kept one in Miami, the other in Chicago, and would alternate residency to confuse the Feds hot on his trail.

Since 2008, in Alameda, Dave Olsen has made a remarkable restoration on ACANIA, holding as much as possible to her original layout, including the secret bar, and hidden and disguised compartments and lockers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krHvdszE9Rg

Olsen's passion for his vessel is obvious. The restoration is highlighted inside and out by 16 coats of Epifanes varnish, with four new coats applied every three months.

ACANIA is relatively narrow for her length, and with her beautiful canoe stern, leaves almost zero wake. Can't say that about all the Bayliners, Nordic Tugs, and Ocean Alexanders plowing these waters.

ACANIA is leaving British Columbia next week for her homeport of Oakland, CA. If you ever have a chance, check out this piece of maritime history.
 

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On the other scale from ACANIA is Josh's "dragonboat" trimaran he built from bits and pieces of driftwood.

Among 22 boats attending the Read Island Community Picnic, the dragon tri got the most use by far, crewed by kids who would jump off into the shallow warm waters and then swim back aboard this unusual water toy. Good job, Josh!
 

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The Around the State Race was once one of the World's premier and toughest middle distance ocean races, on par with the Fastnet, Sydney-Hobart, and Bermuda Races. 775 miles, starting and finishing off Diamond Head, leaving all eight Hawaiian Islands to port.

The Around the State was first held in 1972. Later, in 1978, it was incorporated into the Pan Am Clipper Cup. Then in 1986 it became part of the Kenwood Cup, with IOR race boats from 15 countries contesting. It was last held in 1988.

Memories of the Around the State Race abound, including CHECKMATE dismasting off South Point, and finishing as a jury rigged schooner, with two spinnaker poles as masts.

In 1982, with a mighty crash, we were dismasted on WINDWARD PASSAGE just upwind of NIIHAU when a spreader failed on her 110' mast.

In 1984 we saw the New Zealand EXADOR rolled twice, dismasted, and the majority of her crew swept overboard by breaking waves off South Point. The boat righted, the motor started, and the remaining crew were able to retrieve their shipmates in dangerous waters indeed.

South Point, off the Big Island of Hawaii's Ka'u Coast, was the beginning of a 60 mile beat up to Cape Kumakahi. There was less south flowing current on the beach. But in the dark, with active lava flows, clouds of sulphur and steam, and a coast line that was changing on an active basis, all navigation was by guess, golly, and tearing eyeballs.

The Around the State Race is no more. One of the best memories was the Perseid Meteor Shower. The Perseids were our night time friends on the 200 mile weather leg from Niihau to South Point. The sky was so dark out there you could have reached out and grabbed a meteor as they zipped across the sky.

The Perseids, cosmic dust from the trail of Comet Swift Tuttle, have returned again this week. Despite the light from the "Super Moon," the Perseid are up there, marking their ephemeral tracks across the night sky
 
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WILDFLOWER's last harbor in British Columbia this summer was the same as the first: Pastoral and landlocked Annette Cove on Prevost Island (48-49.5 N x 123-23.2 W). At low tide, we anchored in 4' of water, sand and mud. The only sounds were occasional cows lowing in the meadow at the head of the inlet mixed with the honking of a love lorn goose.

Entering back into U.S. waters near Friday Harbor we had a close encounter with the San Juan County Sheriff. He was driving an aluminum 30' catamaran at a high rate of speed and aimed directly at us. At the last moment we altered sharply to starboard, and the sheriff held course, passing about a length away and giving us a dose of 3' wake for good measure. Welcome to the USA?

The customs inspector at Friday Harbor treated us to a saner government encounter, inquiring about Cuban cigars. Really? Coming up empty on that account, the only other issue for WILDFLOWER seemed to be the legality of the two remaining zucchinis.

Later in the afternoon we spied the Sheriff's catamaran returning to the Friday Harbor fuel dock. After some debate as to the wisdom of another law enforcement encounter, we walked down to the fuel dock for a word with the Sheriff.

Sheriff "Herb" was most friendly and apologetic for the close encounter, which he remembered. He explained he was on patrol (at his usual speed of 30 knots) and had to cut close to WILDFLOWER as there was another powerboat coming at him on the outside.

I think I prefer discussing the potential threat of zucchinis with Customs than reckless driving with the Sheriff.
 
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Hi Skip - I have enjoyed following your cruise. I cruised that region on several occasions with my brother who keeps his boat in Birch Bay. Unfortunately, I had to turn down his offer to cruise this summer. See you in Santa Cruz. - Robert
 
Marinas in the Pacific NW invent all sorts of attractions for yachties, especially those with big powerboats and wallets to match.

Roche Harbor Marina leads the class with its dog shows, mobile holding tank pump out boats, and the carillon of bells at the Chapel of Our Lady of Good Voyage, (the only privately owned Catholic chapel in the United States,)which rings out Broadway tunes.

At sunset comes Roche Harbor's famous sunset salute to lowering of colors, complete with cannon fire and March from the Bridge Over The River Kwai on the loud speakers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuVYS4uw0as

Friday Harbor has its own built in attraction, the beloved one-eyed harbor seal Pop eye who has been hanging out at the floating Fish Market, 10-5, for 20 years. There are statues of Popeye around town, and she is featured on Friday Harbor's website. For $5 you can buy a bag a herring and feed Popeye, and people come from Iowa and Texas to do so. http://threesheetsnw.com/blog/2010/...y-local-celebrity-a-harbor-seal-named-popeye/

Cap Sante Marina at Anacortes was late to the game, but quickly catching up, offering free bicycles, free delivery from Safeway, a giant chess set on the sidewalk, floating party docks available for rental, and an evening choir of Marina employee youth attempting to harmonize.

Dale, the Cap Sante Harbor Master, has one upped Roche Harbor. Boat visitors to Cap Sante are given coupon books to local eateries. To top it off, you get a cellophane fortune telling fish. If it curls in your hand, good luck will follow. Good for 4 year olds and up. http://www.stevespanglerscience.com/lab/experiments/fortune-telling-fish

Berkeley, are you listening?
 
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After dinner walks at Cap Sante Marina, Anacortes, WA, rarely fail to bring some surprise or treat.

Last evening I ran into Robin Jeffers from Monterey. Robin is a pro sailor and delivery skipper par excellence who I've known for many years. We spent a few minutes catching up about his recent Pac Cup and return delivery. Robin and his partner are in Anacortes building a new home across the channel on Guemes Island.

Looking for noteworthy boats on evening dock walks takes one into the land of Nordic Tugs, generic Catalinas, and Bayliners. But at sunset on this particular beautiful evening I found two beauties, on the same dock yet.

To port was an H-12, probably the prettiest 16 footer ever designed.
The H-12 was designed by Nathaniel G. Herreshoff 100 years ago. Few could have foretold the unique popularity and longevity of this design. The H-12 is still considered to be one of the finest, if not the finest, small sailing yacht designs ever created, perfect for all ages in the family, not just the kids.


To starboard of the H-12 was the Bermuda 40 yawl FREYA. Designed in 1970, and built by Hinckley, the B-40 is probably Bill Tripp Sr.'s finest effort. FREYA is drop dead beautiful, with varnish gleaming in the fading light.

As yacht designer Dick Carter once said, "The only question is do you hear the violins play when you look at the boat."

Call me old school, but I hear the entire string section every time I look at a Bermuda 40 yawl.
 

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I loved the reference to the violins playing while admiring a Bermuda Yawl, and it made me think I here Kazoos and Banjoes when admiring the JAR CAT type boats.
Keep Smiling,
H Spruit
 
On a busman's holiday, we boarded Ev and Gary Adams 32' SLO POKE tug for a 7 mile voyage north from Anacortes to one of the loveliest, least known, and little visited islands in the San Juans.

Vendovi, (48-37 N x 122-37 W) is only about a mile in circumference, but home to pristine forests, pocket beaches, hiking trails, and no permanent residents except for part time caretakers Sean and Heather of the Westsail 32 OM SHANTI.

Vendovi was acquired by the San Juan Preservation Trust in 2010 and can now be visited during daylight hours, May through September. http://threesheetsnw.com/blog/2013/05/vendovi-island-the-newest-gem-of-the-salish-sea/

We tied up SLO POKE to the 80' foot guest dock, and found we were the only visitors. The dock is well protected by a breakwater, and has 7' at low tide. But it is unlikely vessels bigger than about 40 feet would want to enter the miniature harbor.

We had a easy hike to Sunrise Beach, then onto Paintbrush Point, with a fine view of the Cascades, Guemes, and Fidalgo Islands. Blackberries were ripe for picking, and we discovered an abandoned saw mill that probably never met OSHA standards.

At 1600 we headed SLO POKE back to Anacortes at her stately 6 knots. Near SE Point on Guemes we were overtaken from astern by the 40' red water taxi SIOUX ARROW. SIOUX ARROW, at an estimated 20 knots, cut between SLO POKE and the nearby shore, passing SLO POKE less than a length off the starboard side, flooding our decks with her 4' wake, and rolling us heavily. Luckily no one was thrown aboard SLO POKE as we held on tightly.

If I were SIOUX ARROW's captain, and so cavalierly violated navigational Rules of the Road, safety, and common sense, all to gain a few lengths in tight quarters instead of staying well off the port hand, I might expect a letter of concern, with accompanying diagram, to arrive at his company office from Capt. Gary and myself.
 

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In response to the issue with Sioux Arrow... Yews want me ta call ma Uncle Vinney from Chicago? He'll fix thaut problem real cheap... I mean quick... well actually both.
 
It used to be, a massive, once-in-a-decade, South swell would show up in S.Cal to fire off the Dirty Old Wedge with 30 footers, and other breaks, for an epic 24 hour surf orgy. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1447995355477661&set=vb.100008016307210&type=2&theater

With ex-Category 5 Hurricane Marie west of Baja sending her greetings, Marie's swell rose up and delivered.

Late yesterday afternoon, Laird Hamilton showed up at Malibu, then high-lined a beauty for nearly a quarter mile before shooting through the Malibu Pier. Possibly, he didn’t notice the pier.

After his wave, Laird ascended back to the galactic realm of infinity to resume his role as Silver Surfer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOV7mbSrNPk
 
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I didn't think the Work Boat Races at Anacortes could get more chaotic than last year. (Page 53, Post 528) But they could, and did.

The Work Boat Races were slow motion maritime drama. The lead boat, ANDY SEA, a 60' purse seiner, took the first turn tight, and in the 3 knot flood tide, nearly laid her top hamper in the water. I could see most of her bottom, and crew hanging on for dear life. Luckily she came slowly upright. But the near capsize allowed the second place, all black, WHITEY W to seize the lead. It was WHITEY's race to lose, and she did so, missing the second mark, and ramming the spectator dock, sending dressed like pirates scattering in all directions.

WHITEY's miscalculation allowed the third place workboat, the 55 foot tug QUAIL, to assume the lead. WHITEY W backed off the stove-in wharf, and her skipper apparently disregarded her engine's redline in order to catch up. WHITEY was making 10 knots as she drew abeam of QUAIL, and the race was on.

Unfortunately, at "mast abeam," WHITEY's engine blew in cloud of steam and smoke. QUAIL's captain, seeing an apportunity for profit, turned around and took the disabled WHITEY in tow.

It was the heavy lift work barge MERIDIAN's turn to assume first place. She had a brass band playing on the foredeck. But MERIDIAN's rectangular hull shape and blunt bow could not stem the strong tide, and she pretty much was motoring in place. More alarming, MERIDIAN's bow was dipping to spectator's wakes, and her deck was periodically flooding, submerging the band's shoes and shorting their amp. Shades of TITANIC.

Approaching MERIDIAN on a reciprocal course was the Guemes Ferry, chock-a-block with gussied up wedding passengers. Nobody seemed to know who was going where.

ANDY SEA was now back on her feet, and charging fast. Then I noticed a sailboat in the middle of the Workboat Race Course. A sailing workboat? Nope, it was the SC-27 SOLITAIRE, winner of the first (1978) Single Handed Transpac, out for a day sail.

Who won the Anacortes Workboat Races? Hard to say, as we were spectating on the deck of the Guemes General Store, across the channel, enjoying lunch, and watching SOLITAIRE short tack the beach, playing back eddies. Shades of sailing along the Marin Shore, at Pt. Bonita,on a strong flood.
 
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