Fair winds, Skip per
Don't forget to write.
Glacier Bay, Alaska, 5130 square miles, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site and National Park since 1980, accessible only by boat (cruise ship, yacht, raft or kayak) or by plane. Likely one of the most difficult National Parks to visit, except by cruise ship, lack of access has kept this wondrous part of the World relatively undeveloped: The forests surrounding the mountain peaks have never been logged. Mining and commercial fishing in Glacier Bay is banned. Hunting is only allowed outside the Park. The high mountains, including spectacular Mt. Fairweather at 15,325', are rarely climbed. Mt. Fairweather, first sighted and named by Capt. Cook in 1778, is one of the world's highest coastal mountains, only 12 miles from the Pacific Ocean, and marks the northern boundary of Glacier Bay National Park.
I'd always dreamed of sailing my Wylie 27 custom sloop WILDFLOWER to historical and legendary Glacier Bay, explored by John Muir in 1874, when the Bay was still filled for much of its length by glacier ice. My multiple attempts to reach Glacier Bay via the narrow channels of the Inside Passage fell short, as WILDFLOWER's older 4 hp engine wasn't up to the task, and the north end of Vancouver Island was the furthest north we reached.
In 1999, temporarily abandoning the route up the Inside Passage, I made the decision to sail WILDFLOWER offshore, northwest into the Pacific, until I could tack to port and lay Glacier Bay, at latitude 59 degrees North, 137 degrees West, or about 1,700 miles northwest of my homeport of Santa Cruz. This challenge didn't work either. Prevailing headwinds from the northwest ultimately drove WILDFLOWER south, and we ended up 300 miles further south than when we set out, ultimately anchoring in the Channel Islands of Southern California.
As H.W. Tilman once wrote, "There is little point of setting out for a place that one is certain to reach." A noble expression for sure for those who followed Tilman. And, by default, a fact of life if you sail in small boats.
Finally, in 2004, with a new Yanmar 7 hp engine, WILDFLOWER and I got up a head of steam, departing Anacortes, WA, in early May, and via the Inside Passage, ultimately arrived at the confluence of Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers, at the head of Glacier Bay, on the Summer Solstice, June 20th, 2004.
Glacier Bay was so amazing I vowed to return with friends, which we did in 2010 by plane from Juneau. Unfortunately, the engines on the Glacier Bay catamaran tour boat were broken, and we never got out of Bartlett Cove, where Glacier Bay's only hotel sits, the Glacier Bay Lodge, as well as the ranger station.
This year, with friends owning the 75', 1932, wooden, converted research motor vessel CATALYST, we booked passage in one of 6 cabins for a 10 day voyage of exploration into Glacier Bay in early May. It was a good decision. The surrounding mountains were snow capped as if the hand of God had spread whipped cream, sometimes right down to sea level.
The animals, including brown (grizzly) and black bears, were recently coming out of hibernation and we saw many from the deck of CATALYST, including a memorable hour watching from kayaks as a brown bear on the nearby beach turned over dozens of large rocks (50-100 pounds) in search of food. Mr. Bear paid us no mind as we drifted about 75' away, and answered the proverbial question of "does the bear poop in the woods?"... Nope, we confirmed he does his business on the beach.
Griz on small island. He swam out there.
CATALYST's crew of 4 included Sarah, a professional naturalist and kayaker. Sarah was often first to identify what we were looking at, especially the smaller plants and mosses. After an hour of looking under grounded bergy bits, Sarah even found and showed us ice worms, small, eyeless, black worms that live inside glacier ice, possibly by having blood of anti-freeze.
http://www.damninteresting.com/the-ice-worm-cometh/
With a dozen pair of binoculars at hand, and Sarah's guidance, we met several hundred species of birds, mammals, plants, fish, and intertidal life in our walks on shore, kayaking, and just viewing from CATALYST's foredeck, bridge, salon dining table, and fantail. Most notable were the orcas, Dall porpoise, and humpback whales, moose, bald eagles, loons, kittiwakes, rock ptarmigans, and hummingbirds. Mountain goats in white fur coats wandered fearlessly on almost vertical glacier polished cliffs while grazing on small patches of grass and yellow flowers. We saw a cute porcupine up close who showed no fear. Several marmots. River otters. A big success story since my visit with WILDFLOWER in 2004 were the sea otters who, in the last 12 years, have now made Glacier Bay home. We saw dozens, if not hundreds, of sea otters, including many mothers with babies lying comfortably on their chests as they swam on their backs.
As the dark hulled Holland/America cruise ship VOLENDAM passed in the distance, we wondered how a thousand passengers, with only 6 hours in Glacier Bay and going 20 knots, could see any of this activity from 10 stories up. We did see people circling the funnel on waterslides before dropping into the swimming pool. But very few elsewhere aboard. We imagined sea otters must look like a raisins in the distance, and orcas might be passed without note.
Of course the stars of the show were the glaciers and their offspring, the icebergs, bergy bits, and brash ice. There are 15 glaciers in Glacier Bay, of which 5 are tidewater, meaning giant pieces of ice from the glacier's terminus calve into the bay below. We visited 4 tidewater glaciers: Reid, Lamplugh, McBride and Margerie. At Margerie Glacier, at the very head of Glacier Bay, giant explosions and cracks, about every 5 minutes, would signal massive pieces of ice breaking off into the water below.
Margerie Glacier, 250 feet high.
Sometimes, a glacier breaks off under water, in which case a giant berg surfaces unexpectedly. One does not want to be in the vicinity when such a "Poseiden" appears. We spent a sunny, blue sky morning drifting about 300 yards offshore from the Margerie Glacier face. And didn't see any Poseidens.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGDSODCqEB4
For me, and I think everyone aboard, the most special sighting of the trip were wolves. Wolves are rarely seen, and still hunted outside the Park. At our second anchorage, we had a wolf cruising the beach, not 25 yards astern for about 15 minutes. The next day we spotted a wolf pack on the shore, including one wolf silhouetted on a ridge, and heard another howling. Then, the final evening in Glacier Bay, as we finished dinner, a magnificent wolf appeared. Sarah, our naturalist, had never seen anything like it in 20 years. And neither had we. Not only was this wolf bigger than any of the wolves we'd seen previously, but it had a black mane, a cinnamon body, and silver rump.
I heard several shipmates comment "a trip of a lifetime." I would not disagree.
As Humphrey Bogart said to Ingrid Bergman in the last scene of
Casablanca, "We'll always have Glacier Bay..."
Thanks to Ann C. who took the accompanying photos on her Android smart phone.
To answer several questions I've been asked:
No, there were no insects at this time of Spring. It was apparently still too early for winged critters.
M/V CATALYST makes about 7.9 knots with her original Washington 6 cylinder diesel clicking over at 400 RPM. The engine starts by compressed air, and has never been out of the boat in 84 years, since her launch in 1932. A really cool piece of machinery:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVXA2-v_9yE
"Have the glaciers receded?" Since John Muir's time of 150 years ago, the glaciers have receded dramatically, almost 40 miles in places. My amateur observations tell me, since my visit in 2004, 12 years ago, aboard WILDFLOWER, Reid Glacier looked to have receded about 200 feet and thinned by 50-75 feet. Lamplugh Glacier looked to be stable, perhaps thinning. McBride Glacier had retreated significantly, about a mile. Margerie, a hanging glacier, had definitely thinned, but still magnificent about 250 feet high above waterline. A further discussion of Glacier Bay's glaciers can be found here:
http://www.nationalparkstraveler.co...ve/glacier-bay-national-parks-glaciers-primer
Reid Glacier Terminus