Question about lifeline requirements for ocean races.

[Lanikai]

[rolls eyes and shakes head].
I'm also in the middle of this project. Thought I was doing the smart thing by ditching my old vinyl covered lines in favor of the new stuff the racy kids are doing, so I bought a bunch of STS WR2 assuming it was reasonably DIY to install and service/replace. Was planning on the same route as Steevee -- looks really good, by the way! -- with turnbuckles and Spliceline fittings because I wanted to keep my gates, but now I think I'll keep it simple and do the luggage tag at pulpit and then thimble + lashing at pushpit.
Old lifelines are at the recycling yard so synthetic is a done deal for me, at least. Hopefully I'll make an ocean race before the powers that be send Dyneema back to purgatory.

 

[sleddog]

Great information and discussion. Thanks! The bigger pain in my ass is actually having to add a stanchion just ahead of the shrouds to meet the 78" requirement. There's no ambiguity in that rule so I just have to suck it up and do it.

As eyes glaze over, apologies for putting too fine a point on the lifeline/stanchion discussion. There is ambiguity enough to satisfy rounds of debate. For example, I read the lifeline support being at 87", not 78". If adding stanchions just forward of the shrouds is on the menu, one alternate consideration is using the upper shroud as the lifeline support. Though not always possible if the genoa clew is below the lifelines, upper shrouds have been used as a lifeline support for decades. There are multiple ways to do this: one is a thimble lashed to the shroud. Or use a cable clamp. Even easier, but more difficult to remove, is to take a clove hitch around the shroud with the dyneema.

Lifelines must be supported at a point in space at regular intervals. Stanchions are the usual method, but not the only method. Rule, 2.4.5, says "The maximum spacing between the bases of lifeline supports (e.g. stanchions and pulpits) shall be 87" (2.2m)."

"e.g." means "for example." It is not mandatory. If the rule said "i.e", then stanchions would be the only method and mandatory.

Fire away.

 

[Steevee]

As eyes glaze over, apologies for putting too fine a point on the lifeline/stanchion discussion. There is ambiguity enough to satisfy rounds of debate. For example, I read the lifeline support being at 87", not 78". If adding stanchions just forward of the shrouds is on the menu, one alternate consideration is using the upper shroud as the lifeline support. Though not always possible if the genoa clew is below the lifelines, upper shrouds have been used as a lifeline support for decades. There are multiple ways to do this: one is a thimble lashed to the shroud. Or use a cable clamp. Even easier, but more difficult to remove, is to take a clove hitch around the shroud with the dyneema.

I can see how this would work if the shrouds were outboard where the jib sheets will naturally follow the lifeline, if inboard I can see the fitting (clamp,thimble or otherwise) wanting to grab the jib sheets as they drape over, unless it was totally without edges, knots etc. . I had this problem with stuff attached to shrouds. Now I keep 'em clean.

 

[BobJ]

For the SHTP and probably the LongPac, a waiver can be granted if the dimensions are close and overall safety on deck is not compromised. I'd inquire about a waiver before doing a bunch of extra work. I haven't heard who the next SHTP Race Chair will be but an e-mail to Dave H (Commodore) or Brian B (2016 SHTP Chair) would be a good place to start.

 

[EvanLyons]

Those are some good options. The distance is currently 110" so not exactly close. I'll look into the shroud option as I think the jib sheets would clear. If that closes the 87" distance then that would save me a ton.