Staying in Hanalei Bay and the return trip

[John Hayward]

Hi All,

These questions are not directly related to the race, but will race participants have a mooring in Hanalei Bay waiting for them or will everybody be anchoring out? If we are anchoring, what conditions should we be prepared for, what is the bottom like and how is the holding?

How do most of the race participants get their boats home? For those that sail them home, do they normally go North out of HI and skirt the Pacific high? Has anybody singlehanded their boat home too?

Thanks in advance,
John

 

[tiger beetle]

Hi John -

There are no yacht facilities in Hanalei Bay. Skippers anchor out in the bay, which is well-protected via a barrier coral reef from the prevailing trade wind-driven swell. It is advisable to arrange a dinghy/kayak transport for use between shore and boat. Some skippers take an inflatable with them on the race, some ship their dinghy (and possibly outboard motor) to Hanalei and retrieve them upon arriaval. The race rules require a correctly-sized anchor/chain/rode for the boat - you will need it. It is probably not safe to depend upon oars and a rubber dinghy from the Hanalei river mouth out to the anchorage - it's a long row and the winds can overpower the dinghy's rowing ability. If you're up in the front of the anchorage and launch directly from the beach (small 1' surf), then rowing a rubber boat is possible.

The bottom is good-holding sand, provided you don't anchor too close to the mouth of Hanalei River. If you are at the river mouth your anchor will see more mud.

Prevailing conditions are 10 knots of wind, with 90 degree wind shift and gusts to 25-35 knots when the squalls pass by Hanalei. I have always set two anchors on long rode with a yacht's length of chain on the anchor. To go with all-chain would be even nicer, but heavy.

The return trip is a matter of boat size. Small boats (<30') may be able to afford shipping back via Matson provided they have a regular trailer that was previously shipper to Hawaii. Anything larger than that gets prohibitively expensive, so the larger boats come home on their own keel. There is an entire other side to the TransPac, and that's The Return - most skippers will be singlehanding their boats home afterwards and the roll call and comraderie continues. A typical return is a week banging north towards the High, a week sailing slowly east under the High, or motoring slowly through the southern lobe of the High, than a week reaching (often in heavy air) to close the coast with North America.

- rob/beetle

 

[haulback]

John:

You will be expected to lay-to your own ground tackle once you cross the finish line - hence the rule (it's in there somewhere!!) about suitable anchor and ground tackle for your vessel.

Lots of theories regarding anchoring - some swear by using two anchors on seperate rope/chain rodes - others happily toss one over the side on arrival and figure thats just fine - I prefer all chain. So take your pick. Also then decide between a danforth-type anchor or a plough.


Holding is pretty good in clean sand. There's usualy an offshore breeze, that is, it would tend to blow you out of the bay, should you drag for some reason or another. This is more favourable, in my opinion than ending up on the beach.

A bity of swell sometimes works around the corner of the Island/reef so it can get a bit rolly, but less so if you can find a anchoring spot far enough into the bay.

Do be aware that our northern summer equates to hurricane season in the Eastern Pacific, so there is always a chance that things could get really ugly. However it is rare that they make it that far, usually they blow themselves before landing on the islands...... Hundreds of boats make the crossing from the mainland every year without incident.

Some guys ship their boats home, I have no idea about that part of it but am sure that someone will chime in if you need more info on it. I think it depends on how small your boat is, and how deep your pockets are.

The most fun though is to be had sailing home. My experience it that you beat north out of Hawaii for anywhere from 500 to a thousand miles, untill you get winds with a westerly component in then, then lay a course for home. But I head for the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the California guys seem to turn east earlier, kind of depends on where you are going, and if you are willing to sail extra miles to get home as oppsed to motoring through the high.

Seems to me that most boats singlehand the return trip as well, but some do take on crew.

Hope this helps a bit. Where are you from and what kind of boat do you have???

Jim/Haulback

 

[Barbara Euser]

Sailing to South Pacific after SSTP

Hello Jim/Haulback,
Am considering continuing on after 2008 SSTP, that is, to South Pacific. What was your itinerary after 2004 SSTP? Did you post your adventures on a website I should consult?
Barbara/Islander

 

[haulback]

Barbara:
From Kauai lay as hard on the wind as I could until well below the equator, around 10 degrees S or thereabouts, trying to make up as much easting as possible. Plan was to try to make Tahiti, but this was not to be. Ended up falling off the wind for the last bit and landed in Rarotonga in the S Cooks at about 22 degrees south. Then stopped off at Vava'u Group in Tonga for a couple of weeks and a short stop in Fiji. Was in New Zealand by mid October.

Next time I will forget all about trying to get to French Polynesia, and head directly to Samoa/Tonga/Fiji area. Lots of options from there. It would give better wind angle and much more pleasant sailing conditions along the way. You can't see everything anyway, so may as well see the things that are easier to sail to.

Didn't have a website or anything like that, but I did send out the occasional hello-all-stations letter along the way every once in a while. Who knows what happened to those by now!!

Would be happy to have a chat with you about it all. E-mail me your phone number along with a convenient time to call, if you wish, and I will ring you up.

Looking fwd to seeing you on the start line next summer.

Jim/Haulback

 

[John Hayward]

Thanks Jim and some answers

Thanks Jim,

You pretty much echoed what Rob said. I knew there were no docks in Hanalei and only some mooring buoys and I didn't think the mooring buoys would be sitting there waiting for us. I would have preferred a mooring from the standpoint of being able to leave the boat comfortably for longer periods or overnight. I have never left the boat at anchor overnight without being on it and would have liked to spend one or two nights ashore with relatives who will be there for the finish (I hope). As for the return trip, I had planned to do it singlehanded and was hoping that was more the "norm" and glad to hear it is.

As for my boat, it's a Valiant 40 and I keep it in Sausalito. I am not expecting to "win" the race or even my class, but I will have a great time participating, so I don't have to worry about weight. I have a 45 # CQR on the bow with 300' of chain. I also have a 35 # CQR with 50' of chain and 200' of 3/4" rode and a 25 # Danforth with 40' of chain and 200' of 5/8" rode. I just came back from 7 weeks in the Channel Islands where anchoring out is the only option. I prefer to use just the bow anchor, but in the smaller coves you have to anchor bow and stern to accomodate more boats, so I used the Danforth off the stern. I think this should work for Hanalei, but I still won't want to stray away from the boat for too long. Glad to hear too you are not typically anchoring on a lee shore.

Coming back, I had thought about Sitka, but given time considerations, I think I will just head North then across to the Straits of Juan de Fuca and plan to cruise there for a month or so (have my wife fly up) prior to running down the coast and back to Sausalito.

I am looking forward to a great trip. Thanks again for your help. I will be posting more questions about some specifics of getting the boat ready, but the trips up and down the coast non-stop worked out great (well, except for losing the transmission off San Luis Obispo coming North).

John

John:

You will be expected to lay-to your own ground tackle once you cross the finish line - hence the rule (it's in there somewhere!!) about suitable anchor and ground tackle for your vessel.

Lots of theories regarding anchoring - some swear by using two anchors on seperate rope/chain rodes - others happily toss one over the side on arrival and figure thats just fine - I prefer all chain. So take your pick. Also then decide between a danforth-type anchor or a plough.


Holding is pretty good in clean sand. There's usualy an offshore breeze, that is, it would tend to blow you out of the bay, should you drag for some reason or another. This is more favourable, in my opinion than ending up on the beach.

A bity of swell sometimes works around the corner of the Island/reef so it can get a bit rolly, but less so if you can find a anchoring spot far enough into the bay.

Do be aware that our northern summer equates to hurricane season in the Eastern Pacific, so there is always a chance that things could get really ugly. However it is rare that they make it that far, usually they blow themselves before landing on the islands...... Hundreds of boats make the crossing from the mainland every year without incident.

Some guys ship their boats home, I have no idea about that part of it but am sure that someone will chime in if you need more info on it. I think it depends on how small your boat is, and how deep your pockets are.

The most fun though is to be had sailing home. My experience it that you beat north out of Hawaii for anywhere from 500 to a thousand miles, untill you get winds with a westerly component in then, then lay a course for home. But I head for the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the California guys seem to turn east earlier, kind of depends on where you are going, and if you are willing to sail extra miles to get home as oppsed to motoring through the high.

Seems to me that most boats singlehand the return trip as well, but some do take on crew.

Hope this helps a bit. Where are you from and what kind of boat do you have???

Jim/Haulback

 

[John Hayward]

Hi Rob,

Thanks for your detailed reply. As I indicated in a reply to Jim, weight is not a concern for me, so I will be taking my inflatable and have a 2 Hp Honda for it. Is there any safe place to leave the inflatable/engine if you are going to be away for multiple hours????

As for the return trip, I am glad to hear that most do it singlehanded as that was my plan too and that some people go roughly together and maintain radio contact. That too would great fun also.

John

 

[Alchera]

John,

With a 45# anchor and 300 ft of chain, I wouldn't be too worried about leaving your boat overnight, so long as you set it correctly.

As for a safe place for the dinghy, that's a problem. Both Rob (Tiger Beetle) and I had our dinghies stolen in broad daylight in 2006 from the river mouth landing, while we were down the road attending the afternoon tree party. So I wouldn't recommend leaving them there. So far I haven't heard of any problems while the dinghies are tied up to the yachts at anchor, just when they are ashore. What we got in the habit of doing after the theft, was to throw the dinghies on the top of a car and drop it off at the nearest SSS skipper's rented house for safekeeping while ashore. I had a rented house not far from the landing last year we used for this purpose, and will most likely have one again for 2008, so I don't mind keeping dinghies for folks that want to do that. It's a hassle, but unfortunately seems to be necessary if you don't want to risk losing it.

- Mark

 

[John Hayward]

Hi Mark,
You're right, of course, but I don't know if I would feel comfortable enough to leave it all night??? I have never had a problem but have only seen about 35 Kts, so haven't anchored in a real blow.
That's disappointing news about the dinghy thefts on several levels, but better the hassle than losing a dinghy, especially if you're not headed straight home. My wife will have a condo and a car and my sister has a house in Haena, so with your offer and that, I should be covered. We might even be able to help with dinghy shuttling.
John

 

[haulback]

John:
Keep in mind that both Mark and Rob's dinghies were pretty nice units. If you have a less desirable, old piece of sh## like mine (a beat-up 2 hp start-n-go on an old Avon Redcrest) it may be less of an issue.

And you could set both anchors, maybe 50 feet apart, on the same chain, if you are worried enough to do something, but not worried enough to buy a bigger one!!

Both of these, of course are observations/suggestions only. decision is up to you.

Also, in '02 I did not have a outboard and simply rowed back and forth from the boat to the beach for my whole stay there. Easy enough really - I fueled, watered and provisioned for the trip home this way - no drama. Only overturned in the surf once
Jim/Haulback

 

[Alchera]

Most of the skippers make shoreside arrangements, so most of the boats out there are left overnight. As Rob mentioned, many of us set out two anchors in a 'V' just for the added peace of mind, but some also lay only one anchor out. Everyone sort of keeps an eye out, so if your boat starts changing position, someone will probably notice and give you a phone call. (We usually all exchange phone numbers - it comes in handy.)

I don't use all chain, and in the past I have come back to the boat to find the anchor rodes wrapped around the keel and fraying away like crazy. This happens when there is a period of no wind, and the boat floats randomly around doing 360s until the wind comes up again, at which point the keel is wrapped. Not good. Since I've got a fin keel with a bulb, once it's wrapped, it won't unwrap by itself. So last year I used weights on my rodes to keep them hanging straight down away from the keel when there was no wind. Seemed to work OK. You won't have that problem with an all-chain rode, since it will hang straight down to the bottom when there is no wind.

- Mark

 

[brianb]

Boat return

Hi John,

A bit of data on a return via Matson. I have shipped boats home 2 times. The largest was an Olson 34. I know of one Express 37 that was shipped via Matson. The Pac Cup team puts together a deal with Matson that saves considerable amounts of money on the normal shipping charges. In the past Pac Cup has accommodated SSS members into the program. For the Olson 34 the cost was $4200 in 2002. In 2000 I paid $3600 to have the same boat delivered home. After replacing the damaged standing rigging and some of the frayed running rigging it seemed the ship return was the better choice.

The key is to find a trailer. This makes the operation for Matson a snap. They just tow your boat into a ROLO. If you opt for this choice follow Matson instructions to the letter. Any deviation and they will really raise their prices at the incoming inspection. Also a few $20 bills seemed to help the Matson measurer with his ability to read a tape measure.

Best luck,
Brian

 

[BobJ]

Brian, the current Matson situation is of interest to me as I consider whether to race again next year. (I just printed out the Rules and Conditions and the interest is starting to stir . . . )

I sent out some e-mails ahead of the 2006 race and was told that because of higher fuel costs, there were NO deals with Matson via the PacCup fleet and the cost for my 30 footer would be at least $5,000 plus local transport/decommissioning/recommissioning, and finding a trailer. For that and other reasons I sailed the boat home.

What do you know about Matson deals for 2008?

 

[cr1]

Hey All,
I've decided to come up for the December 17th comm. seminar and so I thought I'd ask a few more questions re: staying on the island and returning my boat back to the mainland. I'd like to sail back in company single handed. But I'm also planning on having my wife meet me over there and spend a week or so vacation. Will I be able to hook up with some boats going back after a week or two in Hanalei? Also, we're looking for an inexpensive rental for a week or two close to the boat (yeah, sure). I'm a first time SHTP'er and so any help is greatly appreciated. I'll see you all up there on the 17th. If anyone cares to sit and chat about options and places when I get there, thanks...

Rich Hillman
[email protected]
714-914-1451
Horizon
Contessa 26

 

[Ergo]

Staying in Hanalei

Hi Rich,

Re: an inexpensive rental close to the boat. There are quite a few options but none of them are actually cheap. If you're committed to going, I'd recommend starting the research soon and possibly finding another racer to share a two or three bedroom unit with. It's also worth noting that light conditions in '06 wrecked havok with most plans for family vacations. In the immortal words of Wisdom "This isn't a family vacation".

Re: the return trip. It's a mixed bag but, I don't know of anyone buddy boating back, especially staying with a slower boat. In '06 boats left a few at a time over the span of about a week. We do maintain a return radio net similar to the race's checkin routine; another great reason to have an SSB.

If I do the race again, I'm planning to sail back with one or two crew. Having another sailor on board would take a lot of the excitement out of equipment failures and watchkeeping if you you loose all your amps. I think there were more mechanical, electrical and gear problems coming back than going.

Bill Merrick

 

[haulback]

Agree with Ergo - boats usually leave in fits and starts during the week or 2 after the finish. No such thing as 'sailing in company' I don't think - usually an hour or two away from the islands you don't see another boat 'til you get back home. But it will probably be the same for the race over anyway.....with a 4 or 5 mile horizon from a small boat, you don't see much.

You are as close, however as the SSB for the 2X daily checkins. and they can go on as long as there are 2 boats out there. Often boats other than TP'ers will take part in homeward bound check-ins to stretch it out a bit as well, or if you only want to listen to someone call Don on Summer Passage, a nice guy who runs a weather 'net' of sorts. If he likes you he will talk your ear off.

The ride home can be pretty nice, once you get into it for a while. Everybodys a little more relaxed, and a LOT chattier once out of 'race mode'

As far as staying in Hanalei - I can never figure out what the big rush is to move ashore once everybody gets there all the time. Why not get your wife to holiday on the boat with you?? You are surrounded by a salt-water swimming pool, there are public showers in the park for free, a 360 degree view from the cockpit, have coffee for breakfast and eat in Hanalei Village the rest of the time, no bugs, and always a nice refreshing breeze.

It sometimes get a little rolly now and again, and you may get a little wet during the odd squall. Tell her it's an adventure...And you need a reasonable-but-not-super dinghy. I did fine with a 8 foot inflatable with oars in '02, and that's all I'm taking for '08.

My opinions only, of course.

Jim/Haulback

 

[AlanH]

Hello Jim/Haulback,
Am considering continuing on after 2008 SSTP, that is, to South Pacific. What was your itinerary after 2004 SSTP? Did you post your adventures on a website I should consult?
Barbara/Islander

Wow! Barbara Euser! Hi, and welcome to the forum. LTNS!

 

[cr1]

Thanks Bill and Jim for the responses re: places to stay etc...

Right, about in company I meant in SSB range. Also, I don't expect to keep up with anybody it'd be more like I expect later departures to approach and pass me during the trip home.

I love the idea of staying on the boat. Karen and I anchor at Two Harbors and Cat Harbor down here at Catalina and she's never complained. I bet she'll go for it; I just never thought to ask. See, you guys are saving me money.

One more thing, I never thought about the weather slowing me down. I was just going to pick what I believed was the slowest I would go with hardly any wind and schedule that day for Karen to be there. And that would put me just about at noon on the 2nd. Cutting it kind of close since that's the deadline, but that's what I can do averaing 4.2 knots. Hopefully I can average that with minimum wind. I'm not going to be that much faster with good wind.

Thanks again,

Rich Hillman
714-914-1451
[email protected]
Horizon

 

[Eric Thomas]

Brian, the current Matson situation is of interest to me as I consider whether to race again next year. (I just printed out the Rules and Conditions and the interest is starting to stir . . . )

I sent out some e-mails ahead of the 2006 race and was told that because of higher fuel costs, there were NO deals with Matson via the PacCup fleet and the cost for my 30 footer would be at least $5,000 plus local transport/decommissioning/recommissioning, and finding a trailer. For that and other reasons I sailed the boat home.

What do you know about Matson deals for 2008?

I have gotten two quotes from Matson, for my Olson 30, shipping the trailer out empty from Oakland and the boat back on it, $8200 from Oahu and $10400 from Kauai. They ship the trailer for free, and measure only the boat not the mast as long as it is on the deck. This is up from about $5000 for an olson 30 four years ago. I was planning on hauling the boat out at the ramp near the Matson terminal in Nawiliwili Harbor at the yacht club. I have a float on capable trailer and we carry our own gin pole. Another O30 told me the delivery upwind from Kauai to Oahu nearly did him in and ruined his spirit on the trip. Given the high cost of getting my "cheap" boat back I am looking into selling it out there or buying one on the coast and selling/dumping it in the islands to save on shipping from the midwest and back. When I visited the Nawiliwili Yacht Club two years ago I noted that 3 of their fleet were Olson 30s that looked to have been sailed out there and "left behind"

Eric Thomas
Polar Bear
Lake Superior

 

[Eyrie]

sailing from Kauai to Oahu

Sylvia & I did the delivery sail from Kauai to Oahu last summer and we had a delightful sail. We were told to expected the trip to take 36 hours and advised to clear lands end of Kauai by sunrise it order to get in the lee of Oahu by the time the afternoon winds really kicked in. We left Hanalei Bay around 2:30 or 3 AM as I recall, and the Hawkfarm 28 being a bit on the slow side, we had maybe 2-3 hrs of uncomfortable upwind miles but nothing a couple of reefs couldn't handle. In the end, the trip only took 24 hrs which added some drama with arriving at 0 dark thirty instead of the light of day. We also got some weather advice regarding which day to leave from a local, Mitchell Alapa with Hawaii Surf Adventures, who drove the escort boat last year.

Synthia/Eyrie