Tchoupitoulas
Member
Ah a sea hood. My Santana 22 had one. I think all Santanas did. Most removed long ago to allow the cleat bar.
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Getting Ready for SHTP 2021
- Thread starter AlanH
- Start date
After looking at this photo of the Auto Helm again...
and thinking that maybe those bicycle brake ferrules were part of the problem, I took them and their brackets off, and made these from some aluminum roof flashing.
The thinking was to get something as similar to the Auto Helm as possible.
FAIL. Still too much friction. The monofilament is entering and leaving the PTFE tubing in dead-straight lines, there are no hard kinks in the tubing, only the very gentlest of curves. And still....it take 8-10 pounds of force to move the cable. I don't get it, but I think I'm at the point of diminishing returns.
Time to try another approach.
and thinking that maybe those bicycle brake ferrules were part of the problem, I took them and their brackets off, and made these from some aluminum roof flashing.
The thinking was to get something as similar to the Auto Helm as possible.
FAIL. Still too much friction. The monofilament is entering and leaving the PTFE tubing in dead-straight lines, there are no hard kinks in the tubing, only the very gentlest of curves. And still....it take 8-10 pounds of force to move the cable. I don't get it, but I think I'm at the point of diminishing returns.
Time to try another approach.
Daydreamer
SAILOR
I'm wondering if there might be a leverage problem rather than friction.
Have you tried a longer arm on the oar?
Maybe 2:1 purchase on the lines to the oar.
Of course I don't know how far the foil on the oar needs to rotate to be effective.
Have you tried a longer arm on the oar?
Maybe 2:1 purchase on the lines to the oar.
Of course I don't know how far the foil on the oar needs to rotate to be effective.
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I tried this, the other day...
See the temporary, clamped-on midline tiller on the pendulum oar? ...and the spreader, with the little blocks to redirect the tiller line? That's exactly how Jan Alkema had his vane set up, down at the pendulum oar end.
Didn't fix the problem.
See the temporary, clamped-on midline tiller on the pendulum oar? ...and the spreader, with the little blocks to redirect the tiller line? That's exactly how Jan Alkema had his vane set up, down at the pendulum oar end.
Didn't fix the problem.
Cockpit cover is on. The stern light wood base has a fresh coat of paint, which is drying on a piece of plastic under the cockpit cover. I replaced the wood block that holds the autpilot pin, today, after the Pelagic spun the boat through 270 degrees for no reason going up to the City before the last SSS race....and ripped the pin block apart in the process of falling into the cockpit. Anyway, the new block is in, drilled for the bronze pin holder, and it got paint.... though of course, the last thing I did on the boat before I left today was put my elbow on it and spoil the finish.
If it rains tomorrow, I have three projects I can do in the garage. If it doesn't rain, I'll go by West Marine in the AM and get the wire I need to finish the autopilot installation.
If it rains tomorrow, I have three projects I can do in the garage. If it doesn't rain, I'll go by West Marine in the AM and get the wire I need to finish the autopilot installation.
FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF.........
Yesterday as I was packing the truck to head up to Coyote Point, I threw in a couple of things to install the depth sounder transducer, just in case I had the time. I was pretty sure that S2 built solid glass hulls and cored decks, but then I remembered that the transom was cored. I found that out when I lowered the outboard motor bracket. So I went online and double checked.
Nope. Balsa cored hull. The Airmar in-hull transducer won't ping through a cored hull. So I will HAVE to get a haulout before SHTP 2021, so I can VERY CAREFULLY cut through the inner skin and the core, fill in with glass and epoxy, and install. I'll do this, probably about 6-8 weeks before, so the depth sounder is in for my inspection.
Yesterday as I was packing the truck to head up to Coyote Point, I threw in a couple of things to install the depth sounder transducer, just in case I had the time. I was pretty sure that S2 built solid glass hulls and cored decks, but then I remembered that the transom was cored. I found that out when I lowered the outboard motor bracket. So I went online and double checked.
Nope. Balsa cored hull. The Airmar in-hull transducer won't ping through a cored hull. So I will HAVE to get a haulout before SHTP 2021, so I can VERY CAREFULLY cut through the inner skin and the core, fill in with glass and epoxy, and install. I'll do this, probably about 6-8 weeks before, so the depth sounder is in for my inspection.
Autohelm 2000 is in, is on it's own line, with a 10 amp fuse and a switch in-line. It's low-class but it works, for now. Come to find out that Raymarine has slightly changed the plug and receptacle from 2008. I had one from the last SHTP that I did and accidentally installed that one instead of the one that shipped with the new one. Nope. No fit. So the old one can go in the trash. I can calibrate it next weekend and then sail one day with it before going around the Rocks on the 30th.
We have autopilot; calibrated and tested on a four hour sail, yesterday. I even learned how to use the auto-tack feature. Works a treat. Also, the old, old, OLD dacron genoa, while the shape is well blown back in the sails, sets better than I remember it.
This dacron mainsail didn't have a cunningham, so last night I swept out the floor of the open space in the garage, cut out three patches in what's probably 5 ounce dacron and went at it with the sewing machine. Incredibly, it worked. Now I need Joe at Leading Edge or Synthia to stitch in some webbing, to anchor a ring in it. This is a very old, cut-down, used main, and the draft is blown out, so it's not worth dropping a mess of money into it. The battens are extremely heavy and the sail would benefit mightily from a full-length, tapered batten at the top.
What to do for SHTP?? This sail has two reefs, but an awful shape. The still-good kevlar triradial sail still has a good shape but only has one reef. I'm not bringing the boat back with me. Should I use the almost-ready-to-go dacron main for the SHTP, or get a second reef put in the kevlar main? I might, actually carry both mains on board, the second main for an emergency backup.....maybe.
This dacron mainsail didn't have a cunningham, so last night I swept out the floor of the open space in the garage, cut out three patches in what's probably 5 ounce dacron and went at it with the sewing machine. Incredibly, it worked. Now I need Joe at Leading Edge or Synthia to stitch in some webbing, to anchor a ring in it. This is a very old, cut-down, used main, and the draft is blown out, so it's not worth dropping a mess of money into it. The battens are extremely heavy and the sail would benefit mightily from a full-length, tapered batten at the top.
What to do for SHTP?? This sail has two reefs, but an awful shape. The still-good kevlar triradial sail still has a good shape but only has one reef. I'm not bringing the boat back with me. Should I use the almost-ready-to-go dacron main for the SHTP, or get a second reef put in the kevlar main? I might, actually carry both mains on board, the second main for an emergency backup.....maybe.
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solosailor
Member
If a new main is not in the works I would go the "backup" main plan and carry both.
I think so, too.
....
i spent a very hot day wood butchering the forward end of the sea hood. This took me HOURS, but then it's got three complex curves in it. One was done with a hand saw, mallet and chisel, with a surform plane at the end to smooth things out. Crude, slow, but effective.
The sea hood / hatch scabbard is finished. I just need to screw it down on the hatch rails. Hopefully I can zoom up to Coyote Point and do this tonight after work.
I really should quit using sawdust to make fillets. They're plenty strong enough but wow, are they rough-looking.
I really should quit using sawdust to make fillets. They're plenty strong enough but wow, are they rough-looking.
solosailor
Member
Nice work Alan.
Lessons learned this weekend...
1.) This mainsail sets nicer with a reef in it than it does full-hoist!
2.) autohelm 2000 worked a treat....
3.) Open CPN on Android, running on my unused Tracfone cell phone is NOT to be trusted.
4.) most of the "tracking" messages my SPOT sends out, never go out. However, if I push the "I'm OK" button, they ALL go out. I'm somewhat less than overwhelmed by this product.
5.) I have to move the position of the autopilot plug. It's where it is, because there was already a hole put there by a previous owner. Instead of drilling into actual hull, I drilled a hole in the plastic cover that was over the hole. OK, so I know that the autopilot can control the boat, now. It's time to relocate the plug so I won't kick it out, which I did three times during the weekend.
6.) replace the stern light...which I just did, four months ago but something has gone kaflooie. It's getting juice, so the connection to the LED board has gotten messed up.
1.) This mainsail sets nicer with a reef in it than it does full-hoist!
2.) autohelm 2000 worked a treat....
3.) Open CPN on Android, running on my unused Tracfone cell phone is NOT to be trusted.
4.) most of the "tracking" messages my SPOT sends out, never go out. However, if I push the "I'm OK" button, they ALL go out. I'm somewhat less than overwhelmed by this product.
5.) I have to move the position of the autopilot plug. It's where it is, because there was already a hole put there by a previous owner. Instead of drilling into actual hull, I drilled a hole in the plastic cover that was over the hole. OK, so I know that the autopilot can control the boat, now. It's time to relocate the plug so I won't kick it out, which I did three times during the weekend.
6.) replace the stern light...which I just did, four months ago but something has gone kaflooie. It's getting juice, so the connection to the LED board has gotten messed up.
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Intermission
Member
BobJ
Alerion 38 "Surprise!"
I think there's some middle ground in there.
Windvanes are pretty useless if you're racing to Hawaii with a spinnaker, especially on lighter boats like yours. They ARE very effective for making you round down as the boat accelerates, like when surfing down a wave.
The self-contained Raymarine cockpit drives (ST1000, ST2000) are good for hoisting sails while powering and light upwind work. That's about it.
I never had a bit of trouble with the Pelagic drive on Ragtime! - none whatsoever. On Rags the Pelagic drive worked better with the Raymarine computer and controller than with the Pelagic computer/controller. I would race to Hawaii without hesitation with Raymarine's EV-100 and the original Pelagic cockpit drive on a boat like yours or the J/92.
Windvanes are pretty useless if you're racing to Hawaii with a spinnaker, especially on lighter boats like yours. They ARE very effective for making you round down as the boat accelerates, like when surfing down a wave.
The self-contained Raymarine cockpit drives (ST1000, ST2000) are good for hoisting sails while powering and light upwind work. That's about it.
I never had a bit of trouble with the Pelagic drive on Ragtime! - none whatsoever. On Rags the Pelagic drive worked better with the Raymarine computer and controller than with the Pelagic computer/controller. I would race to Hawaii without hesitation with Raymarine's EV-100 and the original Pelagic cockpit drive on a boat like yours or the J/92.