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Getting Ready for SHTP 2021
- Thread starter AlanH
- Start date
Huh....sure I can. I never thought of that.
tiger beetle
N/M 45 Tiger Beetle
Raymarine specifies the minimum compass safe distance as 9" between the i40 display and the magnetic compass. It's in the i40 manual section 3.5...
https://www.raymarine.com/view/index-id=4870.html
- rob
https://www.raymarine.com/view/index-id=4870.html
- rob
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Looking over the SHTP rules, I see that I need a knotmeter. Will the speed function on a GPS suffice, or does it need to be a separate, dedicated knotmeter? If it has to be a separate knotmeter, that's gonna hurt because almost nobody makes one any more. The Raymarine i40 is $250, but it will require me to haul out again for a day, which will be another $350 or more. Humminbird used to market a $99 knotmeter and a $99 depth sounder, but no more.
BobJ
Alerion 38 "Surprise!"
I don't know what the SHTP requires. IMO it depends if you're getting ready for one two-week race to Hawaii, or you're planning to race the boat for awhile. When racing on the Bay, I like to see how SOG and boat speed compare so I know how the current is affecting me.
If you decide you want to see boat speed but don't want another hole in the hull, consider an ultrasonic transducer. You might even build one yourself.
If you decide you want to see boat speed but don't want another hole in the hull, consider an ultrasonic transducer. You might even build one yourself.
I know about doing the SOG and STW thing to figure out current effects, but realistically, will I use it? I might. If the Wildcat were coming home from Hawaii with me, then it'd be a no-brainer, but she's not. It makes no sense to pay $10,000 to ship a $6,000 boat back from Hawaii. So I'd be buying a $250 knotmeter to do...
Possibly the WestPoint Regatta, this summer, if it's held.
Half Moon Bay SSS race, 2020.
An offshore 400 mile qualifier in September
Vallejo 1-2, 2020
Maybe the 3BF in January 2021
Round the Rocks SSS, 2021
Corinthian race SSS 2021
Singlehanded Farallones, SSS 2021
and then the 20201 SHTP... That's nine events, for which I have to spend $250 for the knotmeter and probably $350 for the haulout to install it.
Now....ARE there "ultrasonic" knotmeters? If there are, I can't make one, my expertise is with wood, epoxy and string, not circuity!
everydaysailor
New member
It just says "knotmeter" whereas the depth sounder rule reads "permanently installed".
Maybe just buy a Knotstick and call it good.
http://knotstick.com/
Maybe just buy a Knotstick and call it good.
http://knotstick.com/
I know!! But seriously, do you know of a speedo / knotmeter that doesn't NOT require a through hull fitting? 'cause I'm all over it, if you do! There are plenty of transom-mount ones of course, but...ahhh..
I totally forgot about the knotstick. I had one years ago and it was reasonably accurate, if you towed it for a couple minutes and glanced over 5-6 times and took an average.
WILDFLOWER never had a knotmeter, which I consider fragile, foulable, even dangerous, as they are another thru-hull unless you are towing a Walker Log, like I did in the first SHTP. Current US Sailing Safety Equipment Regs (SER's) 4.13 require a knotmeter, or "distance measuring instrument."
When inspected by the Chief Inspector for a past Hawaii Race on WILDFLOWER, he asked to see my speed measuring device. I gave him an orange that had written on it how to take an orange peel, drop it from the bow, time its passage to the stern, compute the speed, then eat the orange. Chuck shook his head, said that's what he used to do, and passed the "device." Not saying that would be accepted in these days of electronic safety requirements. But worked for me.
Oceanslogic
New member
You can find these second hand for cheap...would check the 4.13 box....
http://www.knotstick.com
http://www.knotstick.com
I'm all over it! Low tech. I love low tech. It doesn't need electricity. There are no holes in the boat....Huge plus. Knotstick, magnetic compass, paper charts, sextant, worksheet, tables and a cheap digital watch, and if I have to, I can find my way close enough to Hawaii to get into at least one island. I'll have something like four GPS's on the boat, only one of which will depend in any way on the boats electrical system.
This afternoon, work was incredibly slow so I played hookey and laid up the doorskins for the companionway hatch scabbard...
The S2 7.9 doesn't have a scabbard, and I'm not comfortable doing out there without one, so..... It'll kick off tonight and I'll take it to the boat tomorrow for final measurements and trimming.
The S2 7.9 doesn't have a scabbard, and I'm not comfortable doing out there without one, so..... It'll kick off tonight and I'll take it to the boat tomorrow for final measurements and trimming.
Today was one of those days at the boat where somehow I didn't waste a lot of time, but after 6 1/2 hours I don't have a whole lot to show for it. I DID get the old wood block that supported the autopilot pin off the deck. The 3M 4200 lifted the gel goat. Seriously, I bedded that block with 4200, and I cut through as much of it as I could get to with a utility knife, and then pried it off. It came off, all right...along with about two dime-sized slabs of gel coat.
So that got a coat of epoxy today, and will get sanded and painted, soon...and THEN the new block will go on.
So that got a coat of epoxy today, and will get sanded and painted, soon...and THEN the new block will go on.
The PTFE tubing is taking FOR-BLUIDY-EVER to get here. So I'm waiting for that. On Saturday I realized that there was no power cord for the i40 Depth Display, in the box. So I went up on ebay and found an adpater cord...SeaTalk1 to SeaTalkNS (or whatever it is) which will work. I have to clip off the SeaTalkNS fitting, strip the wires back a bit and link the appropriate colors to enough wire to get to the breaker panel. However, it's going to take a few days for that to get here, too.
So meanwhile, I remembered what Tom from Constellation and Pt. Richmond Canvas sewed up for me, back in 2008, for a covering for my Autohelms. I got out some old Sunbrella, left over from the project where I made a cover for the skerry. I went down to the hardware store and bought 1 yard of heavy, clear vinyl, and I made a "not waterproof, but rather water-resistant" cover for the Autohelm 2000. The thread is leftover outdoor polyester...UV-resistant. I cut the vinyl to make a window so I can see the buttons and course display. The stitching is in no way waterproof, but it's not terrible.
It's open at the back, where the pin and the power cord emerge. The sleeve over the pushrod is open at the bottom, it's more of a "hood" than a sleeve. I need to put about 9 inches of extender on the end of the pushrod.
So meanwhile, I remembered what Tom from Constellation and Pt. Richmond Canvas sewed up for me, back in 2008, for a covering for my Autohelms. I got out some old Sunbrella, left over from the project where I made a cover for the skerry. I went down to the hardware store and bought 1 yard of heavy, clear vinyl, and I made a "not waterproof, but rather water-resistant" cover for the Autohelm 2000. The thread is leftover outdoor polyester...UV-resistant. I cut the vinyl to make a window so I can see the buttons and course display. The stitching is in no way waterproof, but it's not terrible.
It's open at the back, where the pin and the power cord emerge. The sleeve over the pushrod is open at the bottom, it's more of a "hood" than a sleeve. I need to put about 9 inches of extender on the end of the pushrod.
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The PTFE tubing arrived today, so I set it all up....no luck, still too much friction, and I liberally doused the inside of that tubing with Tri-Flow. It's slicker than....than......right..
so I have two options.
1. Build a rotating base, which will work for moving the vane in relation to the wind, and keep the cables, which will not be in cable housings at all, directly in line with the axis of the mast. This is basically what Jan did. It's a lot more structure and work to build. If I do t his, I ditch the entire notion of the rotation sleeve on the mast, being the course-setting mechanism....which rather sucks.
2. Give up on a cable linkage, entirely, and move to a pushrod linkage. This would probably mean abandoning the RHM idea and going to a "regular" pendulum oar. This will also require a lot more structure to be built on the boat, however, I could stay with the rotating sleeve on the mast being the course-setting mechanism.
Frustrated.....but it was worth trying anyway. I suspect that a significant amount of the binding is not in the monofilament/housing, but rather in the aluminum ends.
so I have two options.
1. Build a rotating base, which will work for moving the vane in relation to the wind, and keep the cables, which will not be in cable housings at all, directly in line with the axis of the mast. This is basically what Jan did. It's a lot more structure and work to build. If I do t his, I ditch the entire notion of the rotation sleeve on the mast, being the course-setting mechanism....which rather sucks.
2. Give up on a cable linkage, entirely, and move to a pushrod linkage. This would probably mean abandoning the RHM idea and going to a "regular" pendulum oar. This will also require a lot more structure to be built on the boat, however, I could stay with the rotating sleeve on the mast being the course-setting mechanism.
Frustrated.....but it was worth trying anyway. I suspect that a significant amount of the binding is not in the monofilament/housing, but rather in the aluminum ends.
Tchoupitoulas
New member
Nice plein air workshop. Hey, what's a scabbard?
So, think about the top of the cabin on most sailboats. There's a companionway opening, and you close off the front of it with hatchboards, right? Over the top is a sliding hatch. A scabbard is a curved sheet of wood/fiberglass that the sliding hatch slides under.
Here's a Cal 20. Look at the sliding companionway hatch. It slides fore and aft but it doesn't slide INTO anything. So if you take a WHOLE lot of green water on deck, an awful lot of that can work it's way under that hatch and wind up in the cabin.
Here's a picture of a nice dodger. Do you see how the hatch, which on this boat is wood...slides INTO the raised structure on the deck, under the traveler?
...that's a hatch scabbard. Back when I was going to do my first SHTP, it was required that companionway hatches be covered. I remember being slightly scandalized when Terry McKelvey had a CANVAS "scabbard" made for her Cal 2-27. It just snapped down onto snaps set into the deck. I don't think that would keep much water out.