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Cheers - Bryan
Interested in a boat for 2018 TransPac
- Thread starter jamottep
- Start date
WBChristie
New member
You’re not wrong about not needing an engine for the race. The point being made, is that an O30 without an outboard rates differently than an O30 with an outboard. I was under the impression that it was 3 seconds per mile.
BobJ
Alerion 38 "Surprise!"
We agree it needs to be declared. If compensating weight is carried I would not expect a rating adjustment. I believe there is precedent for this.
I have to smile (and hopefully you can too) about a couple of Westsail 32 owners fussing over an Olson 30's weight issues.
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I have to smile (and hopefully you can too) about a couple of Westsail 32 owners fussing over an Olson 30's weight issues.
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WBChristie
New member
lol. as you well know, weight on an uldb is huge. Not so much on a Westsail 32. Can you detail the precedent?
That.^
Once PHRF weighs in (sorry pun haters), and Phillipe decides on what he is declaring, The RC and Inspectors will sort out where the "compensating weight" (if required/declared/agreed amount by PHRF) can be located.
See the "polar bear" rule regarding "floating level without obvious list" from final inspection until the start (RRC 9.06) and SER 1.5 "secure stowage.... of internal ballast".
The compensating weight would be considered internal ballast, SFAIK, and must be secured in place [unless declared as movable ballast... please, let's NOT go there].
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WBChristie
New member
Absolutely!
brianb
Olson 34 Driver
Dear Jammotop,
Hey, a 100 watts is light. Better make it 200 w. See Adrian's notes on his experience. 200 watts min. Suggest using single crystal cells, not polycrystraline as they will be larger for the same size. Flex panels are, as far as I know, all polycrystaline , they look nice however.
Brian
Hey, a 100 watts is light. Better make it 200 w. See Adrian's notes on his experience. 200 watts min. Suggest using single crystal cells, not polycrystraline as they will be larger for the same size. Flex panels are, as far as I know, all polycrystaline , they look nice however.
Brian
What have I done to get Jim's attention?!?! S**t s**t s**t!
Kidding aside ... Thanks for the nudge. I'll admit again that I'm not an expert sailor. I'm barely a beginner, who's enough of a fool to teach ASA101 to newcomers. I've also said before that I'm a bit of a dummy who needs to be told/showed what to do. "Monkey sees monkey does" very much applies to this man. Maybe that'll be my boat name. I am struggling with sail evolution (poling out jib) and learning others (spinnaker). I'm barely an 80% sailor and, even though this is a race and I'll be in company of some serious sailors who know their boat inside out, I have no expectation for myself, besides getting to the finish line (regardless of what I read in Andrew's book on this topic). I have limited experience and this event is part of hopefully a longer learning curve to get me places. I do welcome any help though, including used equipment that makes sense or donated time
I have two 92 Amph batteries and a 100 W solar panel. Do I feel 100% confident this will be enough? No. Do I have a backup if I drain all batteries and can't charge? No. I won't spend more on a generator and do not like the idea of having fuel on board. I was looking at a small wind turbine but was discouraged by others. I looked into water power generator (drag a prop) but price is prohibitive. That leaves one alternative: a 3rd battery. I thought of getting a separate Li battery just for the auto-pilot. What do you think?
I was able to balance my energy budget but that's just a spreadsheet, which everyone knows can be adjusted to say whatever one wishes. If I play a worst case scenario (auto-pilot 24 hr on drawing 4 Amps then my batteries will be empty in less than 48 hrs).
Well, I have two. I'm not sure that a Raymarine ST-1000+ qualifies as rock solid. I may have a spare Pelagic tiller wand.
I am working on that. But maybe I won't go into the slot. I don't see myself flying the spinnaker in 25 kts of breeze. Not yet. I'd rather be slow than break stuff at this time. Don't take me wrong; I will try to bolster my skills single handing the spinnaker but it'll be baby steps and if it blows 20kt all the way down maybe they'll just be a good bag to rest on when tired. I do love seeing the spinnaker fly and enjoy my time every time it's up.
I have that ... Pfeww, at least one pass!
At this time my budget is cooked, burned. I'm not contemplating a $500 chart plotter. I'm not challenging the benefit of having one. What I'll have is SailGrib on a Nexus 9 Android tablet (with laptop and cell phone as backup) and paper charts. As everybody knows ... None gets wet fingers on an Olson 30! Maybe if there's another deep promo I'll get a handheld chart plotter.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've reached out to them ...
I am only planning to do the SSS races (again $) ... And that's if I do get a life raft in time. I will go out though, for sure.
I stopped caffeine a while ago, just for this stuff ... But sugar is much harder, especially chocolate!
If my experience with Clipper is any indication ... it's more likely going to smell poorly in Double Espresso after a few days, especially if I get a knock down while taking a dump
I very much enjoyed the nights during my qualifying cruise and look forward to more nights at sea.
Ok so I was looking into a mini bilge pump because during the first seminar I attended someone (George?) mentioned that Stan H.'s advice to him for small boat racers was: stay warm, stay dry.
brianb
Olson 34 Driver
PHRF has weighed in. There are several Express 27's that have no outboard, rate 129 as does the fleet, and carry no weight adjustment per the PHRF Cert data. There is also, now, an Olson 30 - our good friend Double Expresso, who has a recently minted cert from YRA that has no rating adjustment, no weight adjustment, and no motor. That pretty much summarizes YRA's input.
Brian
WBChristie
New member
This is so cool! I can remove my engine and race to Hawaii without getting a new phrf certificate!
BobJ
Alerion 38 "Surprise!"
He did get a new PHRF certificate. Evidently NorCal PHRF believes the weight of an outboard has less than a 3 sec/mile effect on an Olson 30's observed performance.
In proportionate weight, removing the engine from your Westsail might be similar. Why don't you give it a shot and report back with the rating effect?
In proportionate weight, removing the engine from your Westsail might be similar. Why don't you give it a shot and report back with the rating effect?
WBChristie
New member
Well, I’ll check with ncphrf before I do it, but yeah proportionally it’s probably about the same. I wonder why there is even a O30 OB rating? Maybe it actually means “Objectionable Behavior”. Poor old Eric, loading up Polar Bear with compensating weight for no reason at all.
mike cunningham
Freedom 30 "Jacqueline"
Bob,
You inspired me to look more closely at my bilge pump situation. I have a increasingly leaky shaft seal and after dorking around with an old Whale supersub I had installed I realized it would no longer work in auto mode. Decided to buy one 800 GPM automatic Rule auto and a second 800 GPM non-auto. I have each plumbed separately to deck level thruhulls with a new three way switch for the auto pump. They work great. Just one point, the instructions on the 800 GPM unit specifically state no external check valve should be installed. It appears there is an internal check valve in the pump if I read the mfg. data correctly. This seems to be borne out by the limited backflow when the pump is turned off. Meanwhile I am hauling out in early April to deal with the seal.
Thanks Brian, great specific advice! Just wondering ... is there a shop in the Bay where I can check out solar panels and MPPT and stuff like that? Or is it all online ...
Daydreamer
SAILOR
I think the greater determining factor is the drag that is reduced when an inboard engine and namely its appendages are removed.
Nightmare originally took a -3 second hit for the change from inboard to an outboard.
The outboard and bracket weigh about 65-70# and 4 gallons of fuel 25#
Even if I were required to carry an extra 100#, I don't think it would hurt my performance. Especially after adding supplies for SHTP.
Nightmare originally took a -3 second hit for the change from inboard to an outboard.
The outboard and bracket weigh about 65-70# and 4 gallons of fuel 25#
Even if I were required to carry an extra 100#, I don't think it would hurt my performance. Especially after adding supplies for SHTP.
I don't personally know of a "marine power emporium" in the Bay Area, but I do have some suggestions:
1. get in touch with Bruce Schwab - former buglighter and Vendee veteran. https://www.bruceschwab.com/. He is in the business of selling this stuff, and no, it's not bargain basement, but his advice is rock solid and he will not steer you wrong.
2. Bruce often works in concert with Liem at LTD Marine. Liem is the owner, and LTD primarily deals with installation and wiring. He has a wealth of knowledge, you just need to ask. (510) 523-2521
3. Ryan's Marine Electrical Service - Ryan is primarily in the business of installation and maintenance, but I have found him approachable and reasonable 510-385-3842
Start with Bruce for the parts and plan.
Leim and Ryan are really more about the execution if you find you need help.
DH
Thank you ... I contacted Bruce.
In the meantime I've discovered that generators don't all cost a thousand grand. I already have an AC charger (max 7.2 A, which isn't much, but should do for backup). I did learn that for my use it's probably best to go with an inverter generator, which unfortunately is usually twice as many $.
Tentative plan: alternate which battery is charged/used every day.
1. During the day: charge with existing 100 W solar panel setup;
2. During the night: finish charging with generator, as necessary.
My battery charger needs 130 watt. Any small generator could charge one half full battery on half a gallon. That means I could charge for 5 days with 2.5 gallons. Mmmh, this is not as unreasonable as I thought at first. The fuel container would be in the cockpit and that's probably where the charger would be when it runs too. I wonder if these work well when heeling 25 degrees.
I'm also considering swapping the PWM charge controller with a MPPT, which may get me a little more out of the panel, as well as giving me a backup in case the controller fails.
Choices choices choices ... And I need to go sailing ...
I've now heard 3 different stories that at least some don't.
In the 2010 TansPac we used Gordie's old l(paint spotted, dented, well-used) Honda generator bolted fore and aft in the starboard cockpit locker (it's isolated from the interior). It would cut out on severe "starboard" heels, but started right up again. We considered unbolting it and setting it transversely on the cockpit sole, but after a day or two got used to pulling the cord every once in a while. We took 5 gallons of gas, but only burned maybe 2+ gallons? The thing ran forever. We ran it about 20/30 minutes almost every day for 2 weeks. Very little sun that trip! The extra gas rode home in jerry cans in the cockpit on Matson.
Since I began sailing in 1971, all my boats have had gas engines (Atomic 4/outboard). I respect gas and am very careful and have never had a negative indecent. Coming back from Catalina in the old Metropolitan YC races we carried 30 gallons in cans on deck and used almost all of it before easing into Santa Cruz, for instance. That's a lot of re-filling at sea from 2.5 gallon cans. Buy an oversized funnel and be conservative when pouring - don't overfill whatever tank your filling. Good idea to put your hatch boards in when filling in the cockpit, especially if your cockpit is confined.
Since I began sailing in 1971, all my boats have had gas engines (Atomic 4/outboard). I respect gas and am very careful and have never had a negative indecent. Coming back from Catalina in the old Metropolitan YC races we carried 30 gallons in cans on deck and used almost all of it before easing into Santa Cruz, for instance. That's a lot of re-filling at sea from 2.5 gallon cans. Buy an oversized funnel and be conservative when pouring - don't overfill whatever tank your filling. Good idea to put your hatch boards in when filling in the cockpit, especially if your cockpit is confined.