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New Boat 4 Tchoup

He does. I don't think I would attempt it otherwise. Thirteen sheets of 6mm, two sheets of 4mm and two sheets of 3/4" plywood for the cradle and temporary bulkheads.
 

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I REALLY want to see this when it's done. In fact I want to disturb you a few times during the process, so I'll be schmoozing invitations to your workshop over the next year.
 
Also, if you just so happen to want to take a photo of the hull lines drawing, and post that, I would love to see it.
 
First order of business is to fair the bottom of the centerboard to make a nice plug for the mold.
 

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Test run making a mold with petrobond sand. I'll need more.IMG_1610.JPG
 

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Okay well the lead pour went well.
 

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I think it's about an inch at it's thickest. I think what may have happened is that I packed the sand so tight the flask was slightly bowed. When we pulled the centerboard out it narrowed the mold.
 
Shaped the lead and cut out a notch. Gordie didn't like the straight seam and the designer thought it a good idea as well. The goal was to pour 80 lbs and cut a 10lb notch. I wound up here with the notch cut IMG_1672.JPGIMG_1671.JPGIMG_1670.JPGIMG_1669.JPGIMG_1673.JPGat 72 lbs. If it turns out too stiff, it will be relatively easy to cut some off the bottom with a large ballast reduction and minimal foil area reduction.
 
The original design called for fasteners in holes then faired over, but the designer just set the rods in epoxy and updated the plans for the same. He says they add no strength to the final board. And after working with the cedar and all that lead, I can understand why. If you were to lift the board sideways from the top, it would just hinge and the rods would just pull through the soft cedar. All the strength is from the 3 layers of 12oz biaxial cloth.
 
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