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Surprise!

Philpott said:
Volvo wagon comes with a middle fold down seat for skis. It also has a "moon roof" that opens. I used it for the mast of my West Wight Potter once.
Click to expand...

Doesn't use of the Volvo require buy-in from the VOR? How long was the Potter mast?

My own VOR doesn't know yet about the pending arrival of a much larger boat part. I just told her the whisker pole pole hanging from the garage ceiling would soon be replaced by "another spar." The replacement spar will span all three bays in the garage.
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Thanks for the suggestions. It sounds like renting a stake truck offers the fewest chances for disaster - thanks Greg. Currently, the mast is firmly lashed to the edge of the dock alongside Surprise! as she awaits further treatments at Easom's Boat Spa.

I saw Dazzler yesterday, who suggested that sailing the boat to Benicia for off-loading was the obvious solution. BTW, Cloud has new Awlgrip topsides. Any guesses on the color?
 
Depending on your vehicular inventory, a trailer does a good job of protecting the trailing end of a mast and the leading edge can overhang the tow vehicle. That worked for Lightning sailboat with 5-6 feet of overhang. Other trailers can be modified for the same result. I always found trailers to be cheaper than trucks. Maybe, an open u-haul trailer can do the trick. Just a suggestion.

Ants
 
Thanks Ants.

Our vehicular inventory consists of two Insights and a Prius, no tow vehicles. But it's a tough little carbon-fiber spar. I think it can survive the trip in a truck.
 
Once I came close to buying a 28 foot mast from a guy near Santa Barbara....until I thought about what it would take/cost to get it up to the Bay Area. NICE...that it fit in the truck!
 
I'm sorry there have been no updates for awhile.

There's a new pulpit so free-flying sails can set ahead of it, and a new cable-less code sail (which probably won't be used in this LongPac!)

New Pulpit.JPGCode Sail.JPG
 
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I ran out of time before the LongPac to get the waterproof panel cover modified and installed. The biggest problem is keeping the key switch dry. It turns out a McCormick brand spice jar lid fits quite well! I think all the Yanmar key switches are the same size so it you have one, this could work for you.

Yeah, it's green but the spices in the jars with black lids were more expensive, and the lid for thyme leaves already had a big hole instead of little ones. Details matter!

Key Switch.JPG
 
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Return from the maelstrom

Walked down E Dock Sunday morning to see whether Bob was awake. What was this? No Bob! Seems someone collected him Saturday night and wouldn't let him drive home. I have never. Repeat: NEVER seen a Bob Boat so disheveled.

Surprise! after the longpac.JPG
 
I'm still waiting on autopilot parts so I finished this project instead. Plumber: "In our business, a flush beats a full house."

Holding Tank.JPGY-Valve.JPG
 
The setting: Plumber has his arm down in a pipe as far as he can reach. Looks up at me and says, “Well you know Tom, Your shit’s our bread and butter.”
 
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Back to autopilots (quickly!) Based on its specs I really wanted this DD15 direct-drive, but the installation issues are causing me to return it. I'd have to rebuild the back of the boat for it to fit. Instead, Eric Steinberg has a new B&G T2 waiting for me. The current plan is to mount the T2 inverted on the bottom of the existing aluminum shelf and the old Robertson drive on top (it can't be inverted). Phil at PYI suggests that both can be attached to the same tiller arm. If not, I'll install two arms.

The existing Simrad AP42N (with its own compass and controller) and Robertson drive would be separate from the new H5000 AP and T2 drive, via quick-release pins on the tiller arm. This is based on Jim Quanci's input that when it comes to autopilots, you don't want all your eggs in one basket. Example: A failure in the wind sensor's PCB (at the top of the mast) can take down the whole B&G system, including the autopilot.

The old bronze tiller arm is a piece of work, eh? It was bored to 2-3/4" when the rudder shaft is only 2-5/8" - thus the rubber shims. Structurally it's better than it looks - an internal bolt passes through the carbon post. It was "really fun" to remove it for measurement. The old tiller arm might have to get me to Drake's Bay and back, then it will become a paperweight.

DD15.JPG
 
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On keeping the key slot dry... let me suggest you get rid of the key completely. Simple power and start buttons (two wires to each switch) is simple and bulletproof. The wires and connectors on the back of these key switches makes "debugging" complicated... been on a few boats where they key switch died at inopportune times and sorting out how to start the engine took "too long". Its not like a car where the key is about theft...
 
I bought a new switch for my Yanmar, my panel is below, but the switch fell apart one day when I was troubleshooting a starting issue.
The key and the contacts are totally separate; the key part twists the switch; the switch is fairly well potted, and one Yanmar key will start most Yanmar engines.
I think you could pressure wash the key slot and the contacts would still remain dry.
 
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