180 nautical miles north of Santa Cruz (90 miles north of Pt. Reyes), on a rocky headland, lies Point Cabrillo Lighthouse. This historic lighthouse and adjacent quarters have been lovingly restored, and adjacent land, covered with wildflowers, preserved for posterity.
Visiting Pt. Cabrillo seemed reason enough for a second shakedown of our 15' camp trailer RUBY. Especially as Pt. Cabrillo light is one of only three remaining lighthouses in the U.S. with an actively operating Fresnel lens.
In concert with Sue and Tom from DAZZLER and their VW Westfalia camper, we tacked windy and narrow roads 240 miles north to Mendocino, successfully avoiding the Bay to Breakers Race, which pretty much had the area of San Francisco's Golden Gate Park closed to car traffic.
The “doghole” of Russian Gulch, two miles north of Mendocino town, was our camping destination. Campsite #30 was the furthest back from the small cove (doghole,) and seemed to receive more sun than sites closer to the beach which were subject to prevailing late afternoon and morning stratus and fog (marine layer.)
"Doghole" ports, like Russian Gulch, were so named because they were so small and exposed that mariners joked they were "barely large enough for a dog to turn around." Despite their small size, dogholes were economic centers of the north coast due to their location and ability to facilitate loading of redwood lumber aboard coastal schooners.
Enroute to our pilgrimage to Pt. Cabrillo Lighthouse, we visited Fort Bragg's famous glass beach. It was windy and cold and we quickly repaired to intimate and warmer nearby Noyo Harbor for fish and chips on a sunny deck overlooking Noyo River and its working fishing fleet.
Noyo is a rough and ready little port. Across from the fish and chips was an amazing Buddha sanctuary, with over a thousand buddhas for sale, including one 20 ton granite specimen that Flippy became enamored with.
Nearby we spotted a retro camp trailer that with a little work (!) might be resurrected. Calling Howard Spruit, white courtesy telephone please.
At the foot of Pt. Cabrillo light lies a cove where in 1859 the frigate FROLIC was wrecked. There's a story there, as FROLIC was a noted opium runner, and heavily insured. No one remembered FROLIC's demise until a diver found her two cannon in 1960.
After a visit to the Ford House, the local museum, the next day we fortified ourselves with goodies from the Mendocino Bakery before launching and kayaking on the Big River, just south of town.
About every Mendocino home in the 19th and early 20th century had a water tower on property. The freshwater aquifer was shallow and easily depleted, and water would often have to be brought in from Fort Bragg. I asked the museum docent how water was pumped up to the many tanks in Mendocino....she directed me to the scale model of early Mendocino town. Sure enough, every house had a water tower, and every water tower had a windmill.
“Mendocino was a very noisy place back in those pre-electricity days.”