Sad news that Santa Cruz surfing legend and pioneer of the wetsuit, Jack O'Neill, has died at age 94.
After tiring of selling parking meters*, O'Neill opened his first surf shop, a corrugated tin building with a totem pole in front, at Ocean Beach in San Francisco in 1952. Inside, when he wasn't out surfing, O'Neill made foam and fiberglass surfboards.
Early on, Jack began experimenting with neoprene rubber as possible thermal protection for surfing in local frigid waters. Before O'Neill's early "Short John wetsuit,” people sometimes wore oiled wool or cashmere to stay warm. This clothing was not only heavy and inadequate, but also tended to leave a small oilslick while waiting to catch a wave. Jack's neoprene "Short John" was a better deal, and sold for $25 a pop. For $10 bucks more you could get a full length "Long John" and a small bucket of talcum powder needed to slip into the new fangled gear, something initially disparaged up and down the Coast. Jack just smiled and repeated his mantra: "it's always warm on the inside."
In 1959, O'Neill closed his Ocean Beach surf shop, loaded two truck loads of gear and kids, and set out down Highway 1 to Santa Cruz to open his second surf shop at the foot of the Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf, adjacent to Steamer Lane.
O'Neill set up a 2 used fire hoses from his brother's firetruck at the the local cliff to access the surf below. Sliding down the fire hose was easy. Climbing back up with a surfboard under arm was a different matter. Does anyone remember this, before the steps were carved in the Steamer Lane cliff face?
Jack O'Neill enjoyed life to the fullest and his pirate's eyepatch image, the result of a surfing accident, only added to his persona. Jack was a gentle person and an early promoter not only of surfing, but windsurfing, catamarans, skateboards, schooners, sand sailors, and hot air balloons.
One afternoon during one of the ubiquitous surf parties upstairs at the O'Neill Building at Santa Cruz Harbor, Jack decided to go for a balloon flight. By now, to his chagrin, Jack's once red hot air balloon with black lettering was faded to pink. No matter, Jack inflated the balloon with the propane burners on the beach by the breakwater, climbed aboard, and lifted off into the low cloud layer. No one saw Jack after that, not until Jack's sharp eyed wife Marge saw his balloon descend from the clouds and disappear into the kelp off Lighthouse Point, a mile west.
"RG," who worked for Jack for nigh on 50 years, was detailed by Marge to effect Jack's rescue....neither of the O'Neill Sailing Center's two outboards would start, so RG rigged a Hobie 16, sailed out the Entrance, and out to Steamer Lane. There, in the fog, RG found Jack O'Neill sitting in the middle of his now deflated hot air balloon in the middle of the kelp. Jack was muttering "Pure. Pure." More on this in a moment.
With difficulty, RG loaded the soaking wet nylon balloon, the propane burners, the basket, and Jack on the 16 foot catamaran. Again, Jack beseeched the heavens with "Pure, Pure!"
Then what happened next is pure Jack O'Neill: He and RG decided to take the heavily loaded Hobie 16 into the lineup and surf waves! WTF? The tramp on the 16 was so low it was dragging in the water. No matter. To Jack, "pure" meant the intersection of one wind or wave propelled activity with another. Riding a hot air balloon, then being rescued by a small catamaran, and riding the surf under sail, all in the same afternoon, was about as "pure" as it could get for Jack, who rejoined the upstairs party in his wetsuit with a big grin on his face.
Although wetsuits opened up surfing to the masses, Jack's finest legacy is the non-profit O'Neill Sea Odyssey Marine Science Program that has taken nearly 100,000 grade school children onto the ocean off Santa Cruz, teaching them environmental stewardship and marine science aboard his 65 foot catamaran.
Godspeed, Jack.
* When Howard Spruit was a little kid living in Los Gatos, the city decided to put in parking meters. The company that sold them had this deal that they would install them for free, on a one year trial basis. The company believed that the city would like the revenue and decide to keep and pay for the meters at the end of the first year.
Well, the citizens of Los Gatos hated the meters so much that they decided to tear them out and not pay for them.
The salesman got burned for the commission and the company had to remove them and repair the holes in the sidewalk. That salesman was Jack O’Neil and because he knew knew Howard was from Los Gatos he never let him forget it.